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 31 
 on: Today at 09:06 AM 
Started by trigger - Last post by trigger
Thanks for the great info!  Great thunderstorms rolling through today. I will try million dollar beach. I was hoping i could get above the valley, Prospect Mnt Smiley

Well if nothing else, we drive through Ohio and Indiana- great kite flying states!

 32 
 on: Today at 08:06 AM 
Started by macdawg - Last post by photogbill
This brings up another question Smiley How about getting templates for the moulds? I could still use the 8.5x11 sheets taped, but again, the results weren't great. It seems I'd have to get a lot of these full size print out to also be able to cut out each of the moulds, since they overlap. Suggestion on that?


What I do is a tedious process but it will leave you with fairly durable templates which can be used for several kites.

First you might want to make your own kite table. I purchased a couple of 35" x 23.5" cutting boards from 'Hobbico' years ago. I taped them together on my work table giving me a 35" x 57" cutting surface. These were much more reasonably priced than those you will find at your local craft shop. I use the cutting board and a utility knife to cut out my templates (from construction board) and to cut my rip-stop panels. I do not use a hot knife like some and have not had any issues of material fraying, as long as I change the snap off utility knife blades often enough. I also use sticky seam tape along the entire seam edges of my kites so that also helps on a long term basis to keep your material edges from fraying. Others like to use a glue stick but I have not tried that method. The PC31 we use for kite making is coated material so it does not easily fray on a cleanly cut edge. The Hobbico cutting boards are a great investment that will last you years and years.

After printing out the full size sail pattern. I use FedEx Office Print and Ship Centers to print out a full 'right' side of the sail pattern. This saves a lot of time and frustration over trying to assemble dozens of 8 1/2 X 11 sheets of paper. which are nearly impossible to do without deviating from the intended end product. 

...I then start the process by making my panel templates. First, after trimming the pattern down, I tape the edges of the pattern down on my work table, laying my construction board underneath, between the cutting surface and and the pattern, taping it on the edges/corners to keep it from moving while I trace the individual fabric panels using Carbon Paper and a rolling (non-cutting) wheel (the blue handles tool in the photo below). I use a long aluminum ruler to help for straight edged panels. After the trace is complete, I then use a utility knife to cut the templates out, again using a ruler for a straight edge on the edges that are not curved. I careful cut the curved edges by following the lines created by the carbon paper tracing process. You can see that I also number my panels to help keep track of which panels go where.

I then use those templates and a ruler to cut all my panels out for the entire kite. I use strips of blue painters tape to keep the fabric from moving and additional strips of tape to keep my templates from moving on the fabric. I do this all along the edges of the templates, using more on the curved edges of the template since I will need to cut those out free-hand and I don't want my utility knife blade to slip underneath the template. This is a tedious process but it is one that has worked well for me. I also use a long ruler over the straight edges of my templates to help as I cut the panels out.

After all panels for both sides of the kite are cut out, I start to assemble the panels on top of the sail pattern, taping the lighter colors down first. You will want to have your darker colored panels overlap the lighter panels for the best results.I use seam tape along the entire joining edge and carefully align the overlapping sail panels using the sail pattern as my guide for aligning the panels, since most colors (other than the very dark colors) will allow some transparency to help in this process. I do this process for both sides of the kite. I like to have a flipped (left side) pattern printed out when kite building. It will cost a little more but will make the build process much easier. Costs me about $9 per side, left and right sail pattern.

After both left and right are finished I join the 2 side together in the center, again using the sail tapped to the sail pattern ...and using seam tape down the center of the joining sides. Once that is done, I like to use a one inch strip of mylar down the back of the kite center for added stretch protection. Some builders, including professionals, do this and some don't feel it's necessary. I also, use a triangular piece of mylar for reinforcement at the keel of the kite. During the sail panel assembly, I partially seam tape the mylar TE reinforcement 'panels' and finish securing those reinforcements with seam tape from the back side of the sail.

I now begin to sew all seams. I sew down the center of the kite where the two sides are joined first. Then I sew along the edge, both sides, of the one inch mylar reinforcement that was attached to the center of the back of the kite. Next, decide which way you plan on sewing your kite panels most efficiently, without having to start and stop your seams any more than necessary. This will vary from kite to kite, depending on how many panels there are and how those panels converge together.


More later if you need any help once you have reached this point! I need to fix myself something to eat and begin cutting my Monster kite rods for final assembly!  Grin

 33 
 on: Today at 07:08 AM 
Started by photogbill - Last post by photogbill


The awl is pointing to the silver mark. The apa is centred on this mark.


Thanks a million! That should make framing much easier for me I'm about to begin cutting my rods after I have some breakfast.

I also like the way you did your LE cut-outs for the rods. I have seen that method before but have not tried it with my builds yet. I have been cutting mine differently and I like the neatness factor with the way you have done yours.

 34 
 on: Today at 07:07 AM 
Started by kite_pilot - Last post by thief
He he he he....dorky I know Smiley

 35 
 on: Today at 05:50 AM 
Started by kite_pilot - Last post by Tmadz
tmadz i think in your terms that would be
hit by an ear of corn tossed by the tornado Wink

Thanks for the clarification Thief. Never in my mind would I have thought of that.

 36 
 on: Today at 05:44 AM 
Started by photogbill - Last post by DMF


The awl is pointing to the silver mark. The apa is centred on this mark.

 37 
 on: Today at 05:19 AM 
Started by trigger - Last post by Bob D
I live 45 minutes south of Lake George by exit 15 on the Northway. Lake George is something like exit 23. That's basically the Adirondacks and you'll have to get out of the area to find a good spot. The best spot possibly is Million Dollar Beach  (the cost of trucking in sand for the beach) at the south end  of the lake  after the beach goers leave. Ideally the wind would have to be coming from the north off the lake. Other than that you'd have to drive north towards Lake Champlain or south where it's flatter. I had heard of someone from NYKE who flies around Mechanicville. I'm pretty new to the area and have flown at a big soccer field by the Mohawk in Scotia. Other than that, it's the usual recreation/sports fields.

 38 
 on: Today at 05:13 AM 
Started by Captainbob - Last post by Jimmer
Hey Bob,
Enjoyed watching your flying and listening to your music.
Jim
 Grin

 39 
 on: Today at 04:56 AM 
Started by photogbill - Last post by stapp59
Thanks for the post Dana!  The Organic notes don't leave much to chance. 

I transferred the mark to the leading edge as marked.  I marked it on the P 31 then when I taped the Dacron to the LE I used a pin to mark the exact site then marked the pin spot with silver sharpie.  I used this mark to center the APA on it  I will post a pic for you a bit later. 

If you look at Derefats other plans that have build notes he centers the APA on this mark.

http://users.skynet.be/cerfvolanttrick/organic/cotes_800px.jpg

 40 
 on: Today at 04:48 AM 
Started by photogbill - Last post by DMF
I transferred the mark to the leading edge as marked.  I marked it on the P 31 then when I taped the Dacron to the LE I used a pin to mark the exact site then marked the pin spot with silver sharpie.  I used this mark to center the APA on it  I will post a pic for you a bit later. 

If you look at Derefats other plans that have build notes he centers the APA on this mark.

http://users.skynet.be/cerfvolanttrick/organic/cotes_800px.jpg

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