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Pages: 1 ... 9 [10]
 91 
 on: November 21, 2016, 11:47 AM 
Started by ZekeII - Last post by Ca Ike
You can always heat an apa to soften it so it stretches instead of drilling it out. I use a heat gun on low for that but a hair dryer on high should work

 92 
 on: November 21, 2016, 11:42 AM 
Started by damp_weather - Last post by Ca Ike
Yep that explains it, Ken. I can confirm it easy enough but I know from tying my own bridles that a running knot uses up about 4.5 cm of line depending on the tube. Usually 1 cm for the knot, 1cm for the "running loop" and 2-2.5 cm around the rod. I'm finding the standoff/tow point knot combo has more effect than adjusting AOA. It's definitely a kite that has to be flown through tricks to get it to do what you want. 

 93 
 on: November 21, 2016, 10:56 AM 
Started by damp_weather - Last post by kenmcneill
Somewhere along the line, I seem to have changed from a "cow hitch" to a "slip" or "running" knot.  Not sure when I made the change, and I may have actually moved back and forth with the knots during the run of the kite. That would explain the 2cm difference in measurements. 

My bottom line to you is - don't get tied up in detailed measurements.  Get it close, and go fly and enjoy your kite.  The Exile was a pretty forgiving design. A couple ruler tics here or there won't add up to much.  Smiley

 94 
 on: November 21, 2016, 10:02 AM 
Started by ZekeII - Last post by Fly Market
Yeah, an APA-D fitting will fit up to .315". So you're talking about drilling out about 3/4 of a millimeter. If it doesn't work, you're only out 89 cents.

 95 
 on: November 21, 2016, 09:05 AM 
Started by damp_weather - Last post by RoyReed
Hi damp

Just to let you know, my measurements were taken off the framed kite, new out of the bag, before it was flown, knot to knot.

 96 
 on: November 21, 2016, 08:35 AM 
Started by ZekeII - Last post by thief
i would expect best bet would be current fittings that are smaller but then slightly drilled out...

 97 
 on: November 21, 2016, 07:13 AM 
Started by ZekeII - Last post by ZekeII
Leading edge connectors mostly. I figured if they can 3D print a firearm, a kite part should be easy and strong.  I have not thought this through properly. Going to go check parts/dimensions and see what can be modified. Failing that, there is always vinyl tubing.  Having them made would be expensive.  I'm heading back to the drawing board .to consoder some cheap alternaives. Thanks for the input

 98 
 on: November 21, 2016, 05:59 AM 
Started by ZekeII - Last post by thief
There are designs ready to be printed in thingverse....
and you have many choices of materials that have different properties....
What fitting are you thinking of?

 99 
 on: November 21, 2016, 05:32 AM 
Started by ZekeII - Last post by Fly Market
A couple years ago, Ben Huggett in Philadelphia did some fairly extensive testing of 3D printed connectors. IIRC, he was able to make some, but they weren't particularly strong. They tended to bend easily, and a few disintegrated under the loads put on them by spars. Maybe the technology and plastics have improved since then. But you might be better off just getting some UHMW plastic and machining your own (or hiring someone like Trevor Reeves in Australia to make them for you).

 100 
 on: November 20, 2016, 05:27 PM 
Started by ZekeII - Last post by ZekeII
I was wondering about the possibility of 3D printing fittings for some old Beman spars, UL21 light.  OD .3485/ID .2575.....I wonder if they would be strong enough. What material might you use?

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