Ok for those of you building a bzar 2011 I have a few tips on getting the framing set right. If you follow the plans exactly this will work. If you use Sugarbakers thread as a guide and copy how he did his nose you will have to make adjustments.
First I will try to explain how Werner did his measuring. With the sail flat he extended the centerline of the spine and the leading edges to create a point which is actually above the nose by 1 cm. this is where he measured from and what can add confusion when framing the kite. Seen in this pic on his page.
Now if you are flying the kite you will know right away if you have the framing off. The kite will backflip easily when trying to half axel, lock hard in a turtle, want to turtle while doing a comete and flip to a fade when trying to taz. I've only had one other kite so finicky with frame set up.
I've taken werner's measurements and tried to make it easier to do. Once I got them right I took out the frame and measured from the nose end of the rods themselves. Since specific lengths of the ULE and LLE are not given I measure the LE assembled as a solid length to the top of the stops. Here are my measurements.
Upper LE stop----33.2 cm
Lower LE stop----95.6 cm
Center T ----53 cm to the center of the spreader
If you used Sugarbakers nose change it actually lowers the LE rods in the LE pocket from the nose position in the plans by 2 cm. So to get the same fitting positions as the plans call for subtract 2 cm from my LE measurements.