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Author Topic: I'm new and want to buy!  (Read 1547 times)
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SparkieRob
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« Reply #15 on: January 26, 2014, 09:58 PM »

My 1.7 cents (AUS to US exchange rate...)

I'd been flying Revs for a year and a bit before I tried my hand a duals. I knew how to give to the kite in a crash, about the wind window and all. I started on my buddies Prism Hypnotist and found it good and solid to start on. BUT I found it wanting low down and, in my hands at the time, a little truck like in overall handling. The main thing was I was able try a kite BEFORE I bought one. If you can meet up with some experienced flyers and ask to have a go. As a general rule they will give you a go on something suitable for the current conditions. This will help no end. And most will give you a go on the trick monsters if they think your capable.

I got for my first dual line a custom made Temptation by Kaos (closest popular equivalent would be a Deep Space by Benson Kites). A bloke here in Australia that is a pretty sweet kite maker. I put some time in on that then bought a matching UL. It was important for me to be able to get a matching UL as there will be some flight consistency.

In the end, hold onto your cash and go find someone to fly with and have a turn of theirs. But if you must have a kite go mid range. There are plenty in the mid range. If you go for a UL but a sturdy UL there are some great factory kites. Sky Dog has the Black Dog UL which also has a matching Std. Prism has the Zephyr but it's a little more money. There are other too.

Sorry to ramble on. Hope this helps.
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whitebirdlover
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« Reply #16 on: January 27, 2014, 08:00 AM »

For a low budget kite, I have this very nice "Phase" from Jeff Howard's Precision Kite Co. Full sized kite with adj. standoff positions, leach line and excellent construction. Capable flyer for a beginning flyer to learn tricks and not break the bank. Crisp sail, low flying hrs. on this one. Very nice zipped, padded bag. $60.00 shipped.



Anyone think this would work for a quality "starter" kite?
« Last Edit: January 27, 2014, 01:21 PM by whitebirdlover » Logged

Anthony
tcope
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« Reply #17 on: January 27, 2014, 08:36 AM »

Thanks for all the input everyone! I still have a lot to decide I guess. I thought my biggest decision was if I should get a standard or ul... but now I'm still trying to figure out if I start out with a middle of the road kite or go ahead and get the big one.

You thought picking out a good kite was going to be easy? HA! Why do you think people here have so many kites. Its because we are always chasing that "perfect" kite. Smiley

Quote
I just have a hard time buying a 200 dollar kite when I could save for another week and get the better kite. Are there any really great sub $100 dollar learners out there? Something really good for just practicing the basics so that I'm not spending so much on that beginner kite and can save more for the better kite if I decide to go that route?

I won't disagree. Going with something like a MW will give you a great kite, no question about that. What I'm having you consider is that you will probably want a low wind and high wind kite as Puzzle mentioned. IMHO many "higher" wind kites can also be less expensive and fly pretty good. It's when a ktie gets down in the 2-4mph range that going with a more expensive kite can give you the most bang for your buck. So I'd perhaps recommend going with a kite that flies well in the 5-10mph range at around $150 to start with. IMHO a slightly heavier kite is a little bit easier to learn on and won't brake as easy. If you enjoy the kite and want to fly in the lower winds, then look at an UL... which might run around $250-$300.

In the past I've mentioned that I really like the Silver Fox kites. Its a kite that I did not like at first. It sat in my bag for a couple of years before I brought it out again. I now have 3 of them. I think my used 2.3 standard was bought for around $100 or $120 shipped. The kite loves roll up tricks at the price that it does not do thinks like axels as well. It will do them but they are not "automatic" like some kites. I think it's a well rounded kite. It's also pretty tough. Using that as an example, you'd have a wel rounded kite for around $100. Use this to practice on and then _when_ (not if) you need another kite you can still afford $300 if that is how you want to go.

I now don't recommend smaller kites for people who appear to want to get into kiting. They are a little too fast/quick. I have a few and do like them though (my go to low wind kite is still the Level One Easy Lite).

Just my... 4 cents now.
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Todd Copeland
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theishkid
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« Reply #18 on: January 27, 2014, 11:31 AM »

Thank you all for your input and thank you for the couple of very generous offers to help out a beginner.
I'm definitely going to take the majority advise here and go with a mid-level kite instead of the high end for my first kite.

I especially like the advice that @tcope mentioned in going with a heavier kite to begin with and then going with an UL once I feel better with flying.
That being said I think I'm going to go with a Premier Widow NG as my first kite. I really like that the design is based off the Widow Maker which will more than likely be my second kite as a UL version. I realize they aren't going to fly the same, but I really like them sharing some of the same characteristics for learning and then upgrading to the nicer version.

Thanks again everyone. I've really appreciate all the knowledge and generosity that's here.
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theishkid
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« Reply #19 on: January 28, 2014, 02:20 PM »

Well I ordered my new yellow Premier Widow NG from kites and fun things today. She said it might go out today… Can't wait to fly!
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tcope
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« Reply #20 on: January 28, 2014, 02:45 PM »

Remember that some kite retailers are AKA merchants. This means if you are an AKA member ($40/year) you get a 10% discount from those merchants. $400 kite purchase in a year and the membership pays for itself. But you also get 4 Kiting magazines a year and help support the AKA who also maintains an insurance policy that is needed to host most kite events.

http://www.aka.kite.org/

If you join and become an AKA member, other AKA members will also hold doors open for you at kite festivals.  Wink
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Todd Copeland
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theishkid
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« Reply #21 on: January 31, 2014, 10:14 PM »

I just got my Premier Widow in today!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9378636@N04/12245955835/#
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9378636@N04/12245961255/#
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9378636@N04/12246530396/#

So I have two questions about the kite...
The lower spreaders have quite a bit of bow in them once you put the standoffs in. Is this normal?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9378636@N04/12245954245/#
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9378636@N04/12245959485/#

The second question is the wing tip. Once it's pulled tight do you put the cap back on it?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9378636@N04/12246536056/#

That's it. Thanks for your help!
Brad
« Last Edit: January 31, 2014, 10:18 PM by theishkid » Logged

Prism Snapshot 1.9
tcope
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« Reply #22 on: January 31, 2014, 10:16 PM »

Yes and yes. The sail will stretch just a little and will remain tight with the slightly longer standoffs.

What I do with the excess leading edge line is wrap it around the spar and on the inside of the tight line.



« Last Edit: January 31, 2014, 10:25 PM by tcope » Logged

Todd Copeland
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theishkid
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« Reply #23 on: January 31, 2014, 10:21 PM »

So thats going to stretch that cap out quite a bit. I guess I'll need to find some more of those since eventually they'll be so loose they'll fall off.

I'm still concerned about that bowing on the spreader even though you say it's normal. All the other kits I see don't look like they are bending that much. But I haven't seen any up close in person. But I'll take your word for it.

Thanks
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JayDee
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« Reply #24 on: January 31, 2014, 10:28 PM »

The bending is normal.  What you do want to do, though, is push the standoff connectors towards the spine a little.  You want the standoffs to be slanted inwards slightly.  That way, they push the lower spreaders together rather than apart, which could cause them to crack at the ferrule.
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Frequent Fliers: Talon Std, UL and Vtd, Widow Maker Std and UL, Solus Std, Widow (modded), ATM SUL, Duende Std
Rarely flown: Exile UL, Zephyr, E2, Ozone, Micron, Quantum
tcope
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« Reply #25 on: January 31, 2014, 10:31 PM »

Do this with the end cap... pull the loose line up toward the nose of the kite and slip the end cap on. You then wrap the line around the leading edge spar just above the end cap and under the tight line. The knot on the end of the line will stop it from unraveling.
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Todd Copeland
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theishkid
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« Reply #26 on: January 31, 2014, 10:36 PM »

Thanks JayDee that makes sense about the standoff connectors pushing more toward the center.

And trope thank you for the advice with the end cap. Would you be able to take a pic of one. I think I know what you mean but I'm not 100% sure.
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Tmadz
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« Reply #27 on: February 01, 2014, 08:48 AM »

I usually just fold it up the extra line and stick it inside the cap before putting it on. My wingtip is clean and there's nothing for the line to catch on when slack line, but other people here are better fliers than me. Those caps won't get too loose. They're not like rubber bands or bungee cords. Best case, get a long bag and leave your leading edges assembled. Easier in the long term.

You can certainly buy some more caps. They're not expensive and you will lose them occasionally.
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theishkid
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« Reply #28 on: February 01, 2014, 10:07 AM »

Well that makes sense why the Premier Widow bag can fold up if you want it short, or un-velcro the bag and make it longer.
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Ca Ike
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« Reply #29 on: February 04, 2014, 10:06 AM »

Good choice.  I have a bag full of high end kites and fly my NG quite a bit.  The only real difference between the NG and the widowmaker is wind range and responsiveness.  Trick capabilities are the same.  WHen you're ready to step up to a widowmaker the transition will be seamless other than a few minutes getting the feel for slight difference in speed and slightly quicker response.
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