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Author Topic: Bell's new kite Aerobe (designed by Albert Chen)  (Read 19086 times)
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Dano
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« Reply #45 on: September 21, 2009, 09:41 PM »

Was that a silver, copper or zinc quarter, there's a weight difference.

Are you serious? <insert tongue in cheek smiley here>  Wink



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DWayne
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« Reply #46 on: September 22, 2009, 06:10 AM »

Was that a silver, copper or zinc quarter, there's a weight difference.

Are you serious? <insert tongue in cheek smiley here>  Wink





I think he is.
The pre Federal Reserve ripoff quarters were 6.125 gms of silver.
The latest edition is 5 gms of zinc.
Still wondering why your dollar has no value?  Cheesy


Denny
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mikenchico
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« Reply #47 on: September 22, 2009, 02:41 PM »

Yep over a gram difference

  • Silver - 6.125 grams - worth $3.60
  • Copper Clad - 5.7 grams - worth 3.7 cents with the silver cladding, 3.6 cents nickle clad
  • Zinc - 5 grams - worth 9/10ths of one cent

Nobody going to call me on the reverse turbo bridle remark?  Cheesy 

Although that did get me to thinking about an active bridle on my own design, it just might work, really, I can see it helping with pitch based stunts, seriously.

I'll leave Albert Chen's design pretty much as he designed it though.



« Last Edit: September 22, 2009, 02:46 PM by mikenchico » Logged

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WinterDaze
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« Reply #48 on: September 25, 2009, 02:23 AM »

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WinterDaze AoF
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« Reply #49 on: September 25, 2009, 03:18 AM »

I have a question for the SLK'ers and Aerobe owners....

On the bridle there are 4 knots (minus the tow point), default is at the 'shallowest' setting, any tips on were best to exploit the other 3 knots?

Cheers

WD
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« Reply #50 on: September 27, 2009, 07:47 PM »

can you take a picture WinterDaze ? My aerobie only came with one knot in the bridal and the tow point larks headed onto the knot on the bridal ... so a picture would be worth a thousand words ...
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WinterDaze
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« Reply #51 on: September 27, 2009, 09:06 PM »

Albert himself just sent me an explanation, it would appear they were from an early production run, in my bridle there were 3 extra knots located towards the tow point 7 cm's further down and then at 3 cm intervals. It looks like the first knot is the place to leave it, and my experience concurs with this conclusion. It sounds like FlyingWings has decided this is the best place for the tow point to be fixed at.

'farfennoogen' thanks for following up on this for me, looks like everyone else got the 'final' and resolved product.  Cool


Regards,


WD
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« Reply #52 on: September 27, 2009, 11:06 PM »

glad to hear you got it figured out WinterDaze  Smiley

 sounds like you got one of the first ones then  Shocked very cool  Cool
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thief
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« Reply #53 on: October 06, 2009, 05:43 AM »

okay..got mine last night...spent about 45 minutes flying in different conditions this morning....hmmm

overall a good kite for the money....i would comfortably tell anyone looking for a higher quality (than plastic) single line kite to go for it...it does fly in all sorts of winds and is a ready to go packet.

a change:
needed to go are those metal clips on the ends of the tail....i am just going to make small pigtails on the wingtip loops and then larkshead the tail pigtail onto that...simpler...and NO METAL involved....
i have worrying thoughts about someone flying the tail off the spine with the clip trailing along behind it grabbing hair or trees etc and causing damage....

flying the bugger:
interesting...i read a few times that in no/sul wind you need to keep constant tension on the line or the kite flips out...and sure enough it does....seems that there is a bit of weight in the dihedral and the nose that is forward of the balance point and that causes any slackline time for the kite to just plummet....this is also probably why the bridle is sooooo short.....keeping everything taught....

flys very well behaved with its tail on...a nice thing...and it is a joy to fly in lighter winds once you get the nag of the slack issue......

on a side note i was not happy to find that my flying line was cut and tied off very badly when Flying Wings went out of the way to make certain that the line was tide to the winder at the end...
and it does need about an inch wider bag to get the line is easier.....

Steve: do you have spare noses and dihedrals from FW for this?Huh?
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ezme6
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« Reply #54 on: October 06, 2009, 07:42 AM »

For the price it is a great buy, for adults or children. I am 100% happy with my two. Cool
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thief
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« Reply #55 on: October 06, 2009, 07:50 AM »

For the price it is a great buy, for adults or children. I am 100% happy with my two. Cool
yeah..i am probably going to need to get a second one..............
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thief
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« Reply #56 on: October 06, 2009, 07:53 AM »

another thing...the line...well if you need bridle line for a Flying Wing kite and you have an Aerobe you have a bucnh of it....it is sort of rough on the fingers but the diameter is big enough for me for a good pinch while flying....
i will keep using this stuff until i leave it somewhere by accident (or start needing bridle line)

also the line needs a swivel in it!!!! this stuff kinks up great!!!!
« Last Edit: October 06, 2009, 11:51 AM by thief » Logged

Kites kayaks & corgis again!!!
ezme6
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« Reply #57 on: October 06, 2009, 03:16 PM »

for sure a swivel....kinky... Cheesy. I have been using an old spool of #50 on a halo winder. So far no probs except kinks
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« Reply #58 on: October 06, 2009, 04:08 PM »

Well...if SHE loves it.....so will you.









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normofthenorth
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« Reply #59 on: October 07, 2009, 10:04 AM »

flying the bugger:
interesting...i read a few times that in no/sul wind you need to keep constant tension on the line or the kite flips out...and sure enough it does....seems that there is a bit of weight in the dihedral and the nose that is forward of the balance point and that causes any slackline time for the kite to just plummet....

The issue of weight and balance point (CoG) is interesting. Any kite that can glide will have a tendency to do that in lulls. For the Aerobe to be a "perfect" glider, I suspect it would need MORE weight in the nose, since it now tends to dive and stall and dive and stall, unless you apply a little line tension to hold the nose down a smidge. A little nose weight would probably do the same thing -- though the extreme curve/bow in the spine would also tend to make a kite dive and stall.

A propos, my Aerobe lost its tail "Dorsal cap", and the spine tensioner came undone, and I'm trying to figure out how much tension I want to put on. The way I did it, it seems to fly OK, but there are a few tension pleats in the sail, and the curvature looks a smidge more extreme than on the photos in the instruction flier. Can somebody with an unmodified Aerobe give me a measurement of the curvature or "draft" of the spine, or some other way to get it right?

Finally, I was flying my Aerobe with the Toronto Kite Fliers last Sunday in light but gust-shifty winds, and there were around 4 or 5 other Aerobes in the air for some of the time, mostly owned by Gary Mark, aka torontokitefliers and http://www.blueskykites.ca/. All without tails. Mine seemed to stay in the longest in the lulls and needed the least tending.

We got some rain, so I put the kite in the car fully assembled, then took it in the house to dry out and replace the tail end cap. When I looked at it later, I noticed that I'd assembled it with the molded plastic nose cap on BACKWARDS! WTF?!? Roll Eyes Lips sealed Wink
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Norm in Toronto
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