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Author Topic: New build - Vortex 107%  (Read 1821 times)
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Palmahnic
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« on: June 12, 2017, 06:00 AM »

Hi folks,

I'm building a Christian Derefat Vortex enlarged to 107%, and had decided to share some of the stages with you. I'm far from an experienced and flawless builder, but I do want to share some personal insights, some things I've found working for me, and some techniques I've learned from others.
I've already made an SUL sail version of the V107 (that's how I'm calling it), for a friend. That one, with a flat bridle (100%), proved to be an excellent, highly trick-able very low wind flyer.
This Vortex, in a standard version, will have more tweaks, which I found to work better on the Vortex than stock settings, and some I haven't tried yet.

I would greatly appreciate your expressions of interest in this, if you're following along, to see I'm not wasting my time posting all this.

So first picture would be just a general one to show a minor trick of using a clothes hanger to keep your Icarex cuttings from wrinkling, also showing the 107% enlarged plans.

Thanks for reading!

IMG_20170608_140659~01 by Iftah Burman, on Flickr
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Thank you kindly,
Iftah.
Krijn
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« Reply #1 on: June 12, 2017, 06:46 AM »

I'm here, ready for your tweaks!



Krijn

ps I've build two Organic.108 sails for someone else (as UL and STD), and because he liked them so much, I've build myself another STD, great kite.
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sugarbaker
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« Reply #2 on: June 12, 2017, 08:54 AM »

following along!
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coogee
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« Reply #3 on: June 12, 2017, 12:43 PM »

Very Interesting

Mike
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DD
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« Reply #4 on: June 12, 2017, 01:33 PM »

There any links to the plans?
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Sine Metu!
mdilucca
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« Reply #5 on: June 12, 2017, 02:42 PM »

I'm very interested is the SUL specs and the V107 plans.

Cheers
Mario
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Cheers
Mario

Palmahnic
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« Reply #6 on: June 13, 2017, 02:48 PM »

Hey, thanks for all the support and interest everyone!

So to start, the plans for the Vortex are on Christian Derefat's website, I just asked the printers to print it in 107% scale.

 For the SUL version Daniel and I decided on P90 for the LE, P100 spine, 2pt LS and 5mm US. We used TAPAs, FSD standoff holders (no end caps), 2.5mm standoffs with screw on sail grabbers. We also ended up shaving about a half cm off the 107% standoffs. For the bridle I went with a 100% turbo bridle (making it more flat which potentially is more suited for SUL).

Making the sail I used spinnaker for the LE, light Mylar, and smaller reinforcements. Since this is a big kite (wingspan is about 250) I decided to put a leech line in instead of a double seam, but used a spectra old line for it. I hate tying the leech line to the wingtip, and because I feared sewing it into the TE just like that would make it slip away, I made something you might consider using as well. 

After threading the leech line through, I sleeved the last part of it with a flying line tight sleeve, about 7 cm long, then made a knot on either side of the sleeve using the unsleeved part of the line but catching either end of the sleeve, that way it doesn't give extra volume inside  the TE and yet keeps it in place. Then made a loop and drew / pushed both ends of the sleeved part together into the TE until there's just a tiny loop left to tension the LE with, and sewed it in place as you would with a thicker bridle-like leech line.
Here are pictures of the end result and the V107 SUL kite completed.

Next, the standard version.


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Thank you kindly,
Iftah.
coogee
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« Reply #7 on: June 13, 2017, 11:19 PM »

Nice colour combo.

Mike
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harveystubbs
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« Reply #8 on: June 14, 2017, 08:52 AM »

I'm here, ready for your tweaks!



Krijn

ps I've build two Organic.108 sails for someone else (as UL and STD), and because he liked them so much, I've build myself another STD, great kite.

That'll be me with the organic 108's. They fly and look really nicely. The standard vortex is really nice and a great all round kite.

Nice build btw Cool
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Palmahnic
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« Reply #9 on: June 17, 2017, 07:23 AM »


I'm continuing with a few general kite building tips and tricks.

I started using cardboard or "kraft card" a while ago to make my templates. It's easy to cut, and stays hard over time, doesn't burn when hot-cutting, and quite inexpensive compared to metal or wood templates.



Another thing I'm using which I would like to give a burning-hot recommendation for, to anyone hot-cutting their icarex, is a gas operated wireless soldering iron. I bought one from China for 23 USD and it works fantastic, enabling me to work anywhere, with 45 seconds waiting time for it to get hot, and with no limiting cords.

There are plenty of options on Amazon and AliExpress, pm me for the link to the one I bought.



Another hack, a very very simple one, I wanted to share with you is how to keep your spinnaker and dacron strips. I put those in plastic round boxes, like the ones supermarkets sell cheese or olives in, and make a cut that lets out only the edge of the roll. I pull as much as I need and cut.



That's it for now. Next time I'll write on the reinforcements on the V107.

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Thank you kindly,
Iftah.
Palmahnic
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« Reply #10 on: June 23, 2017, 01:34 PM »


I've changed the standoffs reinforcements to better protect the connection to the sail, to my understanding. The plan instructs to double the standoffs icarex panel with a Mylar panel.  However, seeing as one of the standoffs sits right on the seam of than panel, I've made a reinforcement stencil that is much smaller than the whole panel but is wider, but I to better cover the entire area.



Because this is a standard version I've decided to double it with an identical strip of dacron.



As you can see by the picture, I've already marked the places for the standoffs when the sail was glued to the plan, as I did also for the APA positions, yo-yo stoppers and center T,  by drawing an indication line that points to those on a bit of masking tape, a little trick I learned from Krijn.

I also decided to alter the plans in the standoffs positions. I'm going to put the outer ones 2 cm inward and the inner 1cm outward. This correlates with experiments I've already done positioning the connecting APAs to the LS closer to each other. I will be using screw on standoff holders to try different settings, if I'm not happy with the initial results.
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Thank you kindly,
Iftah.
coogee
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« Reply #11 on: July 08, 2017, 11:53 PM »

Hi

How is it going

Mike
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Palmahnic
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« Reply #12 on: July 11, 2017, 12:59 AM »

How is it going

Slowly... Smiley  I got busy all of a sudden, and then my Hugo came by mail, so I had no choice but to fly  it more and more.. ;-)

But there were some advances..

Let's talk more reinforcements:

I wanted to add a tail reinforcement. I've seen many use Mylar for that, but decided instead to extend the Dacron one a bit. I've made a stencil that fits perfect to the shape of the tail, and acts as something hard to attach the hooks part from the other side to, something to give the extra strength to the entire tail and the bottom of the center seam, and as a tongue that holds the loops part of the velcro. PM me for a PDF for your personal use.




Center T is also different here, but very much a copy from the type used by many European designers. PM me for a PDF for your personal use.



For the US protection, I simply use the cutout from the center T patch:



For the nose I add extra mylar on the back and then put the nose material.



Cutting the nose, here's a little trick. I've tried once a "snag free" nose technique, and was not that happy with the results, plus it was too much work with little gain. So in cutting the nose extra edges I've found a little trick that helps me do it precisely. You'll need clamps, a metal ruler, and most importantly a small portable glass surface. Once you attach everything as per the picture, before starting to hot-cut, you can flip the glass to see the metal ruler is actually sitting in the right position, not allowing too much to stick out that will snag the line, and not cutting into the LE.


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Thank you kindly,
Iftah.
Palmahnic
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« Reply #13 on: August 03, 2017, 10:43 AM »

Finally done.



I tried playing around with the LS and US lengths, but came back to the 107%:
ULE - BDNitro
LLE - BDNitro Strong
LS - BDNitro
US - 6mm thick
Spine - 5pt + BDNitro extension at the tail end.
Weight - 25grms
Standoffs 3mm, their place tweaked.

Bridle is 107%, Turbo is 7cm (instead of 5cm) and might be extended to 7.5 - 8cm, which makes a lot of difference!

Christian Derefat made a great kite. I really love my 100% Vortex UL, but I like a bigger sail area.
I wanted the old Vortex trickability but with easier Taz Machine, Half Axle Cascades, and Snap Lazy. The bigger sail, pro frame and the small mods brought out exactly that, without compromising on any of the old good traits: deep Turtle, fast Yo-Yos, beautiful Flick Flacks. The pro frame gives a wide wind range, and enables flying already at 5kmh, but only starts tricking at 7-8. It can trick nicely also at 21kmh, without too much difficulty. The most suitable wind is around 12-15kmh. One caveat is that this is clearly a beach kite. It does not handle inland bumpy winds very well.

Here's a video I made, I hope you enjoy watching it, I had a lot of fun making this kite and experimenting with it. Maybe I'll make a vented version in the future  Grin https://youtu.be/On3cRX1e3ng
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Thank you kindly,
Iftah.
thief
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« Reply #14 on: August 03, 2017, 01:31 PM »

no offense meant, but all I can picture looking at that is Sam the Bald Eagle from the Muppet show!

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Kites kayaks & corgis again!!!
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