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Author Topic: Applique Questions  (Read 615 times)
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photogbill
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« on: January 24, 2019, 09:14 AM »

I'm building my first Appliqued kite and was hoping for some help in two vital areas. THe kite is being made for a friend that just got a job where he'll be essentually working for Coca-Cola Corp.

First of all, I'm planing on attaching the applique part of part of the kite First by using spay adhesive and would like advise on which one of two popular brands I'm considerirng  either 3M 77 Multipurpose Adhesive or Loctite Spray Adhesive (High Performance / Middleweight Bonding 200). Is one better than the other. Is one a danger to use on PC31?

Secondly, and more concernoing to me is how to sew the applique part which is an enlarged Coca-Cola logo that is a fancy script with very thin areas to sew. I do not plan on cutting out the back side of the applique which will be white PC31. My main concern and question is which sewing setting to use. I've seen a YouTube showing a zig-zag stitch burt the real thin areas ...which are in several places of the wording ...are only about 5/16 of an inch wide. I was planning on using red thread to match the lettering as closely as possible. I was afraid that any other color would make the thin sections almost disappear.

The sewing process is going to be difficult for me due to the very curvy nature of the applique. Since I don't plan on back-cutting the white fabric, is a zig-zag stitch absolutely necessary? Would either a straight stitch (which I hate) or a traditional very subtle 3 step zig-zag stitch work & still be durable in keeping the applique in place?

Thanks in advance for any and all help!



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inewham
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« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2019, 10:33 AM »

I've used 3M before. It doesn't affect the P31 but it was so sticky it made it difficult to flatten things out smoothly. I mostly used Pritt Stcik because it was cheap and forgiving, and you can wipe it off with a damp cloth

zig zag is more forgiving on the tight turns and still looks good. A straight stitch can look like a succsesion of straight lines if you dont turn smoothly but zig zag will mask that. If you're not back cutting the stitching is contributing nothing to the strength of the sail so a 3 stitch zig zag would be fine but might be tricky on the thin curly parts of the logo

Regarding thing parts disappearing these had a black layer on top cut back to 1/4 inch or less and its still visible



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photogbill
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« Reply #2 on: January 24, 2019, 12:30 PM »

Thanks for those tips Ian. after further checking around on the internet, I'm definately going with the 3M 77 product. And I was originally thinking of going with a straight stitch ...but I can't sew in a straight line to save my life ....lol  So with your advise & that of a couple others I contacted, I'm just going to use a zigzag stitch.
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Krijn
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« Reply #3 on: January 25, 2019, 03:00 AM »

I also would go for the zigzag. Straight are so difficult to make it look nice. A zigzag is much more forgiving.


Good luck!

Show us the pictures.


Krijn
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Oldgoat
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« Reply #4 on: January 25, 2019, 08:01 AM »

I agree with what the folks have said preciously.  A caution, use as little of the spray adhesive as you think you have to have.  It can get tricky if you need to reposition the piece.  I don't know what procedure you intend to use but you might consider using a modular technique where you would make the logo first then applique to the main sail. 
IMO 5/16 isn't all that narrow but of course you're going to have stitches on both sides of the piece.  I agree with inewham, a 3 stitch zig zag could work but would be tricky.  Especially with curvy stuff.  You might want to try a very narrow zig zag.  2 mm or even less.  If done carefully you can "bend" the stitch a little around those curves.  Give yourself a break on your first applique attempt.  Making a straight line/stitch might be a little frustrating and worse yet not have as nice a result as you would like.
 Smiley   
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nckiter
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« Reply #5 on: January 25, 2019, 08:21 AM »

3M Super 77 with a VERY light spray. ZZ the stitch of choice. To help get everything flat, lightly mist your work surface with the 3M. Let it dry to the touch, you just want to make the surface slightly tacky. Carefully smooth out your base sheet (face up). You may want to use a squeegee or brush to help get it all smooth. I keep plastic Bondo spreaders around for this. Spritz the back of the red LIGHTLY and lay in place and smooth out. The layered up panel should peel up intact without being sticky on the back. If it is a little sticky you can lightly dust it with baby powder. When you are done with the sewing you can clean up with solvent to remove any adhesive and powder left. I like Bestine rubber cement thinner. Others use a variety of solvents, you should test on scrap first to make sure you have no surprises.

Good Luck!

Looks like Old Goat got in while I was typing, He's right on point too!
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riffclown
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« Reply #6 on: January 25, 2019, 08:40 AM »

We can use glue!??!??

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Oldgoat
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« Reply #7 on: January 26, 2019, 09:29 AM »

Yes riffclown we can use glue or whatever works for you. Wink  I use spray, mostly for large pieces, stick glue, masking tape, whatever.  There ain't no rules. Smiley I'm going to jump back in here with a couple of additional comments.  I want to reinforce what nckiter said about “lightly.”  One of the things that occurs to me is that photogbill doesn't intend to back cut the applique.  IMO there's some pros and cons about that.  The thing is that unless you go to great lengths to make sure the layers are absolutely flat you can end up sewing in wrinkles. When you back cut some minor wrinkles will disappear.  Not a perfect "fix' but hey it happens to all of us.  Especially in the beginning. In addition to the spreaders nckiter talked about I sometimes use an edge roller.  The kind that is meant to roll the edges of wallpaper when you are hanging it.  It comes in handy for flattening out those tricky edges. I also tend to “baste” the edges with a few bits of masking tape.  Nothing worse that coming to the end of a stitch line and discovering something moved while you were shoving around all that material through your sewing machine.  Now as to stick glue, I use stick glue, a lot. I know you have decided to go with spray but I thought I'd comment a little about that anyway. But I tend not to use it when I'm not going to back cut.  As ineham has suggested it is pretty easy to remove but it's a bit harder if you can't get at it.  If you are not going to back cut it's going to be hard to clean all the glue off and it will show through. 
All the preceding being said, keep flat and go light is probably the most important.  Good luck and take pictures!
 Smiley
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Wayner
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« Reply #8 on: January 27, 2019, 01:25 PM »

What other solvents can you use and how much. Roll Eyes
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nckiter
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« Reply #9 on: January 27, 2019, 05:23 PM »

Bestine is hands down the best I have used. Low odor and fast drying time. Just dampen a cloth / Paper towel / or I like foam make up sponges. Other than that, I've used mineral spirits, which dry slow; acetone and lacquer thinner. Goo Gone will work, smells nice, dries slow. If you can't find Bestine, some art stores carry a similiar product both are Heptane N.
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