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Author Topic: need to remove glued on parts  (Read 1874 times)
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tommymcmillan
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« on: March 30, 2010, 08:48 PM »

How do I remove glued on parts w/o breaking/destroying them? Undecided
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xuzme720
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« Reply #1 on: March 30, 2010, 09:00 PM »

What kind of glue? For that matter, what parts? A few more details would help with diagnosis... Grin
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Asfink tersez wot....

Exactly! Party on, Garth!
fidelio
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« Reply #2 on: March 30, 2010, 09:17 PM »

the best way i've found to remove glued on C-Clips or what some people call do-hickeys is to take a flat blade screwdriver and light hammer, holding the blade of the screwdriver to the clip and lightly tapping and checking and tapping and checking until it eventually breaks the glue joint.

CA glue is famous for being weak against shock and this method takes advantage of the weakness.

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Fdeli
xuzme720
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« Reply #3 on: March 30, 2010, 09:19 PM »

the best way i've found to remove glued on C-Clips or what some people call do-hickeys is to take a flat blade screwdriver and light hammer, holding the blade of the screwdriver to the clip and lightly tapping and checking and tapping and checking until it eventually breaks the glue joint.

CA glue is famous for being weak against shock and this method takes advantage of the weakness.


How did you know? Huh very spooky... Shocked
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Asfink tersez wot....

Exactly! Party on, Garth!
fidelio
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« Reply #4 on: March 31, 2010, 01:41 AM »

intuition  Wink

alternatively, there are CA debonders for sale though i have no personal experience with them to pass on.
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Fdeli
tommymcmillan
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« Reply #5 on: March 31, 2010, 05:21 AM »

I would like to remove ferrules,and nocks from p200 rods,and jaco sail grabbers from 3mm rods..
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DWayne
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« Reply #6 on: March 31, 2010, 06:07 AM »

Submersing the ends of the rods in boiling water has been known to loosen ferrules and nocks.  Wink


Denny
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I always wanted to be a procrastinator..........
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Will Sturdy
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« Reply #7 on: March 31, 2010, 06:18 AM »

Try the boiling water approach first. That's the least risky. At least the CA I use doesn't weaken any when heated though. Some glues used do though.

For the ferrules in straight tubes, the best way is with shock as mentioned above. Put the end of the ferrule on a hard surface, put some padding on the other end of the spar, support it well, and give it a wack. Either the spar will shatter if the joint is really good or the ferrule will pop out.

For nocks that are glued, I recommend clamping the spar in a padded vice with a piece of solid .24 (like a ferrule) inside where it is clamped to prevent it from being crushed. Put a scrap of micro carbon rod or a screwdriver in the nock and twist. That should pop the joint and you can just slide it off.

The same approach can be used on standoffs but you will have to use pliers or something like that to get a hold of the sail grabber.

Basically, use shock when possible. Otherwise resort to torque. You won't get stuff glued on well off by pulling. Always pad stuff. You never want metal or other hard substances in direct contact and exerting force on spars.
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fidelio
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« Reply #8 on: March 31, 2010, 07:06 PM »

also when tapping on C-Clips tap on the side, not the back. so tap with the screwdriver in line with the spar, not perpendicular to it. forgot to mention this above.

good info denny and will, thanks.
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Fdeli
DD
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« Reply #9 on: March 31, 2010, 07:31 PM »

just be careful when you put it over the boiling water that u dont get the spars over the flame
+1 for what has been said above
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Sine Metu!
Allen Carter
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« Reply #10 on: March 31, 2010, 09:31 PM »

I've knocked loose fittings on straight tubes by using a .2400 pultrude rod to repeatly bang on the ferrule/nock from the inside. .2400 sticks have enough mass for this, .2300 and smaller are less effective.

A properly glued internal ferrule is darn hard to dislodge. Blessing/curse that lots of commercial kites have poorly glued fittings.

Standoffs usually twist out of fittings if they were glued with CA. High end kites are often put together with better glue.

Fittings are cheap. Buy a range of spares for your kites. Re-used fittings are often OK, but sometimes weaker or looser.
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Allen, AKA kitehead
stapp59
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« Reply #11 on: April 01, 2010, 02:22 AM »

I've knocked loose fittings on straight tubes by using a .2400 pultrude rod to repeatly bang on the ferrule/nock from the inside. .2400 sticks have enough mass for this, .2300 and smaller are less effective.

A properly glued internal ferrule is darn hard to dislodge. Blessing/curse that lots of commercial kites have poorly glued fittings.

+1 on ferrules sometimes being difficult.  I keep a piece of 3/16 music wire from the hobby store for  this.  Careful heating of the glue with a propane torch will generate enough heat to loosen stubborn CA.  Once heated, the music wire will pop the ferrule out. Carbon will take quite a bit of heat but be careful as you can soften the tube with high heat.
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Hal
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« Reply #12 on: April 02, 2010, 05:57 PM »

Having glued my fingers together numerous times (don't ask) with CA glues, I can tell you that the debonders work.  May take several applications and patience to let it soak in.  Good luck.
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Hal
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« Reply #13 on: April 02, 2010, 10:31 PM »

I have had good success with debonders but you have to take your time, esp. with nocks,and sometimes standoffs can be a real pain.
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