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Author Topic: New Tech Kite meets a tree  (Read 2474 times)
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73Camaro
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« on: July 11, 2010, 03:13 PM »

I'm new to kite flying. I recently learned not to fly a kite anywhere close to a tree. I am now rebuidling a New Tech Desire UL kite. I've replaced the broken pieces of the frame. But, my problem is in the bridle. New Tech don't have spec sheets on the bridle lenghts. Can anyone help me with the lenghts. I'm thinking of using a Spectra 100# line for the bridle. Is that the rght material. And lastly what knot is used to attach the bridle? Thanks. Cry
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ko
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« Reply #1 on: July 11, 2010, 10:03 PM »

this should help http://wardley.org/kites/bridle/knots.html
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have fun kurt
mikenchico
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« Reply #2 on: July 11, 2010, 10:47 PM »

... I'm thinking of using a Spectra 100# line for the bridle. Is that the rght material. And lastly what knot is used to attach the bridle? Thanks. :'(


Nope, pure Spectra is very slippery and may not hold your knots or adjustments well, some beeswax may help though if you choose to go that way.

High performance bridle line is usually Dacron sheathed Spectra, the Dacron provides cushioning for the knots the same as sleeving on your lines and holds knots better, but Gone with the Wind is currently out of stock  Gone with the Wind - Bridle Line due to Laser Pro's dropping of the product.

I would probably just go with a good quality Dacron/Polyester line in the meantime, GWTW has a closeout on 130 lb white for $3 right now, a little stronger then the Desire requires but workable, otherwise the Black Dacron in 80 or 100 lb should be a suitable replacement.

Many bridles just have loops tied into the ends with a simple half hitch and are then larksheaded over the spars during assembly. There is a knot Ken of Blue Moon uses that is tied after the kite is assembled, I don't know the name though to find the instructions, hopefully somebody else who did his workshops will pipe in with it.

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"Living is easy with eyes closed, misunderstanding all you see" John W Lennon

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kiten00b
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« Reply #3 on: July 11, 2010, 11:16 PM »

maybe a cow hitch?
I'd tie a stopper knot at the free end for a more secure hitch
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mikenchico
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« Reply #4 on: July 12, 2010, 06:30 AM »

Definately used a stopper knot, Ken simply melts a mushroomed head at the end by heating the line then pressing it against the lighter.

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"Living is easy with eyes closed, misunderstanding all you see" John W Lennon

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Gamelord
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« Reply #5 on: July 12, 2010, 02:29 PM »

New Tech Desire UL Bridle Measurements:

Upper Leading Edge Connection to Center "T" Spine = 47 7/8" long.
This measurement is from knot to knot and doesn't include the line used to wrap around the spine or leading edge.

Middle Leg from Leading Edge to center tow point = 19 3/8"
This measurement is from the knot on the leading edge to the very end of the loop used to larks head onto the tow point.

Lower Leg from Leading Edge to center tow point = 25 1/2"
This measurement is from the knot on the leading edge to the very end of the tow point loop.  This loop is appx. 2" long and has the other two lines above larks headded onto it.  There is another overhand knot (pull tab style) on the very end of the 2" loop for your flying lines to attach to.

The long upper leg has the marked tow point at 23 1/2" from the knot on the upper leg.  This mark is where you would larks head the "middle" of this long line onto the tow point (end of lower leg line).

Just to clarify, all measurements do not take into account the line tied to the spar which should add about 1/2 to 3/4" of overall length.  Measurements are pre-tied lengths measured from the spar to the knot or end depending on the line.

The line used appears to be standard Dyneema or Spectra line and is not your normal spectra-core bridle line.

Hope this helps.  Maybe I could do a quick drawing...if I get time I will post one up.
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73Camaro
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« Reply #6 on: July 14, 2010, 02:51 AM »

Thanks for your help.  The kite was a birthday present from my wife and I'm really hoping that I can bring it back to life again.
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kitelover
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« Reply #7 on: July 14, 2010, 09:14 AM »

Just for the future....Most broken rods can be removed by simply sliding it out of a larksheaded loop at the end of the bridle leg. If you must untie anything, it helps to measure and sketch all the bridle legs first. Or you can do one side at a time, using the other as a reference. Good luck.
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Steve
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« Reply #8 on: July 14, 2010, 09:44 AM »

Sorry ... just caught this thread.

Quote
New Tech don't have spec sheets on the bridle lenghts

Actually they do.

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Steve ... Ancient One
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