Here's my take on the flight issues that have been mentioned by a lot of people and my results after a lot of testing time.
After testing all the bridle mods posted and even trying a few of my own I have come to the conclusion that the problem with the E3 is not the bridle but the winglets. Now before you say I'm all wet the issue is not in the design of the sail. To understand where I'm coming from you must understand what the winglet actually dose.Winglet purpose:
The primary purpose of a winglet in a high aspect ratio kite is to reduce the tendency to stall (oversteer) in the wingtip and add stability in a turn. The secondary effect of a winglet is that it adds a bit of sail area and can increase drive and stability in straight flight
Essentially what the winglet does is akin to the flaps on an airplane. It helps control the washout ,by the use of a batten rod, in the wingtip therefore controlling the stall potential. Washout is how much the wing tip twists under pressure. In straight flight there is no twist and as you turn the wingtip sail twists presenting less sail to the wind and stalling letting the rest of the kite come around (hence creating the turn).Batten Rod
The batten rod is what actually controls the rate and amount of washout the winglet is allowed. This is a fine balancing act. Too little batten tension and you get too much washout resulting in oversteer. Too much and you get understeer or a nice wide turn radius and in straight flight the winglet becomes a flap adding drag and slowing the kite and increasing the wind speed needed to get the desired amount of drive.
There are 3 ways to adjust the batten. Length. angle and flexibility. THey all do the same thing in that they adjust the tension and amount of movement the batten rod allows. I won't go into the details on this as it gets into a bunch of physics explanations thats not really needed here.Effect on the E3
As I found, the tension along the TE on my E3 was really uneven. Flight in anything under 15 Mph winds was very slugish and under 7-8 mph nearly impossible to keep aloft. In 3-5 mph winds my E3 would in effect fly backwards, have a tendency to sit nose low in the front flip position and fly more nose forward in normal flight(heavier). Turtles or backflips are weak and won't lock in due to the wingtip profile being too flat. Fades will be unstable tending to wobble along the spine axis or end up in a nose dive due to the same wobble.The Fix
If you have any of the flight characteristics I mentioned above try this fix I did before you do any bridle mods. Slide the lower LE out just enough to be able to get the spreader fitting and batten fitting off. Put the spreader fitting on first, then the batten fitting. What this does is lower the tension in the winglet allowing more washout in turns. straightens the TE profile between the standoff and wingtip and reduces drag in normal flight. Here are a few pics after I did the mod.
Before this mod I wasn't happy with how my E3 flew. Now its very responsive. Still very stable/precise in normal flight and has that tight spin turn that we have become accustomed to on Prism kites. It is also very usable in 3-4 mph winds now where it wouldn't even get off the ground before however you still need at least 5-6 mph to trick effectively. The only bridle mod I would add now is a knot every inch along the leader from the prussic knot to add a variable input sensitivity adjustment (more radical edge). I still plan to test out a cross active bridle mod now that I have solved my flight issues and will post up the mod and results for those that would like to try it for themselves.