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Author Topic: fighters....  (Read 2860 times)
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AeroStar
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« Reply #15 on: December 17, 2010, 11:31 AM »

Happy Birthday Thief!  Hey, if you would like a Stryke instruction manual just let me know.  While some of the info is model specific (like how to set the sail tension system), many of the other tips pertain to fighters in general.

As Norm stated, shifting the bridle’s tow point down slightly will make the kite more stable with less likelihood to spin.  Note that this is the opposite of a dual-liner!  But when you think it through, makes perfect sense on a fighter.  A higher AoA increases the sail pressure thus causing more deflection of the cross-spreader.  And when those wingtips bow back more, the added dihedral increases the stability just like on a traditional SLK. 

And don’t worry about the spar lengths.  Unless someone messed with the kite, they are spot on since I do 100% of the fabrication. But here is a good test:  With the MicroTune fully slackened, the C-S spar should be very close to lining up with the upper edge of the bridle sail reinforcement.  I’m betting the sail wasn’t tensioned in that photo since that's the proper way to store the kite.  But once engaged, not only will the spine curve, but the C-S will be pulled south making the upper portion of the sail nice and taut.

Hope this helps,

-Paul

P.S.
Did this gift come from Tracy in FL?
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AeroStar
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« Reply #16 on: December 17, 2010, 11:39 AM »

Forgot to mention about fighter line sets.  I use Spectra fishing line exclusively since the braid is a bit courser than kite grade Spectra.  This adds some “bite” which is ideal for fighters.  And just like on sport kites, Spectra is very durable and the lack of stretch produces a crisp response.

My preferred brand is PowerPro in the 30# test (0.011” Dia).  While that test is overkill for most fighters, anything lighter proved too thin and dug into my fingers – OUCH!  Anyhow, should be available at most sporting good stores.  What I did was buy a 150 yard spool and then split it with a buddy.  And try to get the Hi-Vis Yellow or Red colors...the typical Moss Green camouflages with the grass.  Here are the specs:
 
http://www.alltackle.com/power_pro.htm

Oh yeah, here is one last line tip:  Tie a simple knot into the line about 20 feet from the spool end.  When flying, this knot will serve as a “speed bump” letting you know "the end of the line" is near.  Otherwise, very easy to be in fast dive and then discover you have no excess line available to change course.  Lawn dart city! Cheesy

-Paul 
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mikenchico
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« Reply #17 on: December 18, 2010, 08:26 AM »

Forgot to mention about fighter line sets.  I use Spectra fishing line exclusively since the braid is a bit courser than kite grade Spectra. 

 tip:  Tie a simple knot into the line about 20 feet from the spool end.  When flying, this knot will serve as a “speed bump” letting you know "the end of the line" is near.  Otherwise, very easy to be in fast dive and then discover you have no excess line available to change course.  Lawn dart city! Cheesy

-Paul 


Great tip Paul on the knot, why did I never think of that? I have experienced that end of line dart on too many occasions.

I tried a braided Kevlar fishing line once but it was too fine and soft and I experienced ground tangles on the first test. I'll have to check out the Spectra's, the waxed finish on some may add enough stiffness for my taste. A good upholstery thread is a great choice too, some are already waxed to pull through many layers of heavy fabric easily and cheaper then Spectra.

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"Living is easy with eyes closed, misunderstanding all you see" John W Lennon

"People do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" George Bernard Shaw
thief
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« Reply #18 on: December 18, 2010, 09:14 AM »

Hey Paul!
Yep! Tracy is leading me down a dark path that so far i had been able to avoid!!!   But, she did set me up for lots of fun!!!!
The speed bump idea is a great tip!!!

I have to read the Stryke info that came along with it and then add all of the other info in as well!   Then i might be brave enough Smiley

I will keep y'a;; posted as to how i am doing!!!!!!!!

Thanks everyone!
rob
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Kites kayaks & corgis again!!!
normofthenorth
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« Reply #19 on: December 23, 2010, 08:01 PM »

I prefer waxed (melted paraffin) cotton button thread. Got a huge spool from NFKA/NAFKA years ago that's filled a half-dozen big spools so far and hardly looks diminished. It's weak enough that it tears long before it slices me. Holds knots pretty well when I tear it by accident or on purpose.

It's probably a little light for the Stryke at the top of its wind-range, but I don't fly the Stryke at the top of its wind-range, so that's no problem. Cotton thread is remarkably stretch-free, though not quite as skinny or slick as Spectra.
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Norm in Toronto
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