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Author Topic: Ferrule broke on QPro Std. Need Help  (Read 1736 times)
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hitchhik
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« on: February 21, 2011, 09:13 AM »

I was flying my Prism QPro is too strong winds and one of the gusts snapped my ferrule in half  Cry.
 Both lower spreaders (SkySharks 5Ps) are OK. Smiley

One part is still in the female side (I am fairly certain I can get it out with a long rod) but I am having trouble getting the ferrule out of the male side. I tried immersing the ferrule and part of the spreader in boiling water for about 30-60s and using pliers to loosen the ferrule - but to no avail.  Sad

Any constructive suggestions are welcome

...hitchhik 
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DonCrash
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« Reply #1 on: February 21, 2011, 09:27 AM »

I usually use a longer stick inserted from the other side and giving a couple wacks/taps (rubber mallet or pounded from the ground)...Please be careful, you can hurt yourself.

My cousin suggested drilling once....not my thing, but other have probably done it.

If it breaks or you still cant get it out, you'd have to get another 5PT; local shop or from our gracious host.
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Vented L'organic; Vortex; DS (closeted); Quantum (modded to taz); Ocius STD, UL, UL (2pt P90), SUL; Pi (Home made kite)
Hadge
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« Reply #2 on: February 21, 2011, 10:40 AM »

There was a similar question a couple of months ago.  I believe that careful use of a heat gun was recommended combined with a couple of sharp taps with a suitable rod inserted down the spar.

http://www.gwtwforum.com/index.php?topic=4627.0
« Last Edit: February 21, 2011, 10:42 AM by Hadge » Logged

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bigpappo1
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« Reply #3 on: February 21, 2011, 10:58 AM »

Best to use a hot glue gun when putting in the new ferrule. You probably already knew this.
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RobB
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« Reply #4 on: February 21, 2011, 03:07 PM »

I have used the drill method when all else failed. A steady hand is required...





Good Luck !

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justinpwheeler
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« Reply #5 on: February 21, 2011, 04:01 PM »

It was me who posted in the linked post.  I ended up using a propane blow torch moving it constantly until I had heated the rod sufficiently.  Just be careful not to overheat it because it will crack the rod.  A heat gun would work too.  They are really inexpensive through harbor freight.
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ko
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« Reply #6 on: February 21, 2011, 06:05 PM »

use CA on the new ferrule i use tape as a stopper to get it the right depth
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stapp59
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« Reply #7 on: February 21, 2011, 06:16 PM »

A drill could possibly work with a hollow ferrule as the drill bit would be self centering in the hole.  Would be difficult to drill a solid ferrule on center and not damage the tube.

Have not ruined a tube yet using a propane torch to soften the glue and piano wire to pop out the ferrule.  Have not done this on the clear coated Black Diamonds yet and flame may harm the finish. Wrapping with aluminum foil first may be the thing.  Have to try that...
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KaoS
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« Reply #8 on: February 21, 2011, 07:19 PM »

...Would be difficult to drill a solid ferrule on center and not damage the tube.


Not really.  Start with a thin drill, then work progressively fatter.  I usually find the heat from the drilling friction will melt the CA glue before you get close to a ferrule sized drill anyway.  As the glue melts, the ferrule starts to spin inside the spar.  The drill bit grabs the remaining ferrule material and everything pulls out nice and neat.

Worst case scenario... a new spar and ferrule from Chris cost less than what most people pay for lunch and a coffee  Smiley
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Kevin Sanders

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stapp59
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« Reply #9 on: February 22, 2011, 02:33 AM »

Quote from: KaoS
Quote from: stapp59
...Would be difficult to drill a solid ferrule on center and not damage the tube.
Not really.  Start with a thin drill, then work progressively fatter.  I usually find the heat from the drilling friction will melt the CA glue before you get close to a ferrule sized drill anyway.  As the glue melts, the ferrule starts to spin inside the spar.  The drill bit grabs the remaining ferrule material and everything pulls out nice and neat.

Worst case scenario... a new spar and ferrule from Chris cost less than what most people pay for lunch and a coffee  Smiley

Ah, yes the heat from the drill.  Cool, a new technique I can use. The trick in most methods then is to heat the glue sufficiently be it boiling water, heat gun, drill friction, propane torch. 

+1 on the cost of a new tube Smiley

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bigpappo1
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« Reply #10 on: February 22, 2011, 08:23 AM »

I'm with you Steve!. Why take a chance on a spar that may very well have a hairline crack?. A tube through sail is a real bummer on any kite!, he was lucky this time...
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Kantaxel
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« Reply #11 on: February 23, 2011, 10:33 AM »

Sometimes no amount of flame, boiling water, heat guns or soaking in acetone will break the joint loose.

After trying once or twice, if it hasn't come loose, I've learned it's best just to get a new stick and ferrule......

Could be you'll save your sail rather than having a suspect rod in the kite............

I found out the hard way.......believe me.

Jim
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Jared
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« Reply #12 on: February 23, 2011, 01:53 PM »

Sometimes no amount of flame, boiling water, heat guns or soaking in acetone will break the joint loose.

After trying once or twice, if it hasn't come loose, I've learned it's best just to get a new stick and ferrule......

Could be you'll save your sail rather than having a suspect rod in the kite............

I found out the hard way.......believe me.

Jim

I've been in this boat, too.  The amount of time I spent trying to soak, boil and drill out the old ferrule was disproportionate to just ordering a replacement from Prism.  Buy two, while you're at it, you never know when you might need to replace it again!
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Allen Carter
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« Reply #13 on: February 23, 2011, 02:59 PM »

I've never broken a solid .2400 ferrule. Seems like that would be pretty unusual. The center T  would go first in many cases. Either way, you'd have to be really abusing the kite. Usually odd breaks like this are due to the spreaders pulling out of the center T.

If I did beat up on a spreader enough to get a broken ferrule out, I probably wouldn't use the stick in a high stress application. Swap it for the ULE (if they're the same) with the battered end in the nose where no one will see it.  Smiley
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Allen, AKA kitehead
stapp59
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« Reply #14 on: February 23, 2011, 04:29 PM »

Several good points here.

- Most ferrule removals for me are due to reframe projects where a tube is reused for something other than the original purpose.

- I have broken a solid lower spreader .2400 ferrule (and LSs for that matter) when purposely over stressing a kite during high wind vented testing.  Shocked

- Sometimes I'm just cheap and want to reuse a ferrule from a broken tube in a new tube. Roll Eyes

- Aging CA glue joints respond best to heat and sharp impact to break joint free.

- Epoxy glue joints are a different story as they hold tighter and are tougher than CA.  Entire replacement is a good option.

- Use good judgment when reusing tubes and ferrules and replace if unsure of final tube integrity.

 - Insert missing points here...
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