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Author Topic: Bzar 2011 build thread  (Read 26652 times)
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sugarbaker
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« Reply #105 on: November 17, 2011, 11:27 PM »

Now I'll build the turbo/leader portion of the bridle (there is no need to go in a particular order... none of theses pieces should be attached to the kite yet).

start again by tying a 10cm overhand loop.  (didn't I mention that EVERY portion of this bridle build starts this way?).  Now, I like to have long leaders.  The hope is that it will save my flying line from wearing out.  This portion of the bridle is easier to replace than trying to even up my flying lines.  So, I just put the loop around the spar on the jig and make a mark at the end of the 36" template (the only measurement in this bridle that isn't done in metric).  After making the mark, I cut the line about 10cm past the mark.  Then tie an overhand knot so the mark is on the side closes to the kite. Finally cut the extra and melt the line back to the knot (not pictured until the next step).






Now, before I tie in the knot that will distinguish the length of the turbo, I make my second leader using the same steps.  However, when I get to the last step of tying the overhand knot, I compare the two portions to make sure the overhand knot really ends in the same place.  Even if your mark is accurate, because this is where the flying lines attach, the overhand knots have to be in exactly the same spot.  So, loop both leaders on the spar and bring them taught.  Then, when you tie the overhand knot in the second piece, just make sure it ends up in exactly the same spot.




seen here is the comparison... first completed piece on top with the extra cut off and melted back to the knot.  Second piece tied in exactly the same spot still waiting for the access to be trimmed off.



Now, going back to the first piece.  To form the turbo, an additional overhand knot is tied in the end with the loop.  So, place the loop directly on the template and make a mark at 25mm as shown, I only make one side of the loop at this point.



now, the turbo will attach to the upper and outer legs by use of a prusik knot.  Remember that this takes 1.5cm of extra line.  Now, I made a mistake in my documentation here.  My photo shows the final red marks (across both portions of the loop) at this final measurement.  This was a mistake, as I thought the inner leg would attach to the turbo at the inside of the knot.  If that were the case, then this photo would be correct.  Instead, the inner leg must attach to the OUTSIDE of the knot... away from the kite.  so, what I should have done is added the additional 1.5 cm (3cm total) from the first red mark.  Then, tie the overhand knot on what would be the left of the mark in this photo.  sorry for the mishap.  Anyway, here is the picture showing the marks in the wrong place.



As you can see here, I've completed both Turbo/Lead portions and am comparing them to make sure they are the same.



At this point, I'm ready to move on to the construction of the inner leg (and the last piece before attaching it all the kite!).








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sugarbaker
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« Reply #106 on: November 17, 2011, 11:34 PM »

now, the inner leg starts the same way with a 10cm loop, but instead needs to be attached to the center T portion of the jig.  Then, complete exactly like the activator, only using the 645mm mark on the template.



While still attached to the jig, I make a mark indicating where the activator will attach at 180mm.



Then finish just like you did the activator (I won't use a prusik knot... but the larks head I'll use to attach the inner leg to the turbo has to go around two line thicknesses, so it's roughly the same).  Add 3cm of length past the red mark at 645mm.  Fold back 10cm from this mark, tie off and cut away from the spool.  Repeat steps in this post to create your second inner leg and compare them to make sure they are the same length. 

Now, lets get this thing on the kite.  There is a way of doing this that is easier, so follow the steps in the next post.

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sugarbaker
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« Reply #107 on: November 17, 2011, 11:54 PM »

OK, so all of the bridle is built.  Please note that the sheet bend knot you learned earlier will not be used unless future flying deems it necessary (the only point of concern would be where the activator attaches to the inner leg.  This may require a sheet bend if the prusik I am using now slips.  only flying the kite will tell me for sure).

Anyway, attach the upper leg and the inner leg to the kite in their respective places. (on the middle knot of the LE attachment and the middle knot on the center T). The pictures will show one half at a time, as the resolution won't be high enough to show both sides at once.  Just do everything symmetrically.



Now, attach the activator to the inner leg at the red mark with a prusik knot.  The red mark is in the middle of the knot (hard to see in picture).  The other end of the activator should not be attached to the kite yet... I find it easier to tie the prusik when I can loop the free end back through the knot.



Then lock the pusik so it won't slide along the inner leg (lock by pulling both portions if inner leg away from the activator and folding the knot over itself).  Because the inner leg will have tension on it, this may come undone during flight and require it to be converted to a sheet bend... but for now I'm leaving it as is.  If a change is required, I'll make an addendum to this post.



Now, you can attach the free end of the activator to the kite by forming a lark's head and threading the outer leg, upper leg and attachment lead through the lark's head. (if you already attached the outer leg, shame on you for not following directions).  See how much the activator affects the inner leg? I have measured this multiple times to be sure it is as the plan indicates. Remember that I built the activator to be attached to the knot closest to the spar (shown in second pic on the right side of the kite).





Now, before moving on, put tension on the inner leg towards the nose of the kite.  Both activators should be at the same hight.



Now, attach the turbo to the upper and outer legs at the red mark with a prusik knot (the same way the activator is attached to the inner leg).  With the turbo attached to the upper and outer legs, attach the inner leg to the turbo with a lark's head... below the knot in the middle of the loop; as pictured here.



Now, attach the outer leg to the kite at the middle knot on the attachment lead. 



Make sure both sides are all tied up to the kite and look symmetrical.  Here is a shot of the left side under tension.  If yours doesn't look like this, review the plan, double check again, then triple check.  If it still doesn't look like this when all of the mistakes are accounted for, please review my posts and let me know what I did wrong! 



Now, finally, attach your yo-yo stoppers.  I use APA or exel fittings with a zip tie.  Punch a hole in the leading edge where marked from the plan (silver mark, barely noticeable in this picture) and attach to each leading edge.  no problem.



The kite is now flyable.  Thanks for reading along. 


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coogee
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« Reply #108 on: November 18, 2011, 03:12 PM »

Very Very well done Sugarbaker. A great job for not only the B'zar but a resource for any kite build.
     Respectfully Mike
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Lex B
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« Reply #109 on: November 20, 2011, 08:19 AM »

@ Sugarbaker,
Just a little idea about the last pic. [yoyo stoppers]
Why not turn the ty-wrap towards the sail, it might be a line grabber this way ))
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remember: amateurs built the ark ..
professionals built the Titanic.
sugarbaker
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« Reply #110 on: November 20, 2011, 11:42 AM »

the zip ties are toward the inside of the sail, I've rotated them in at this point... just not reflected in the picture. 
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Kareloh
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« Reply #111 on: November 20, 2011, 12:57 PM »

Well done!

I like the P2 plan behind the B'zar! Wink
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sugarbaker
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« Reply #112 on: November 20, 2011, 01:11 PM »

 Wink
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Magma
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« Reply #113 on: November 28, 2011, 04:32 AM »

It will be nice to tell how it fly soon. Thanks.

My B'zar is a very good kite for slot, taz , 540 , jacob ladder, multilazy , backspin... but I have some problems with it for the roll up ! Two pops roll up it's good but the others.... very difficult...so I 'm waiting for your opinion .

Thanks.

 Smiley
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sugarbaker
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« Reply #114 on: December 21, 2011, 05:56 PM »

someday, I'll post a pic of this kite in the air.  Reno weather hasn't been great for flying this kite... either no wind, or too cold for my taste.

in the meantime, I have been working on this thread... all behind the scenes.  I may have mentioned at some point that my webspace where I host most of the 350 photos for this thread will be gone later this coming summer.  I've been working on redirecting all of the pictures from that space to my picasa web albums.  If this isn't dedication to my fellow kite builders, I don't know what is! 

Anyone building any B'zars out in the world?  I'd love to see pictures of them in this thread or another. 
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Magma
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« Reply #115 on: December 23, 2011, 01:11 AM »

My B'zar 2011 homemade :




 Smiley
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sugarbaker
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« Reply #116 on: December 23, 2011, 01:48 AM »

excellent.  I really like your chosen color scheme.  I just acquired some orange PC31 and look forward to using on a future build.
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AKA_MrBill
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« Reply #117 on: December 23, 2011, 08:48 AM »

My B'zar 2011 homemade :




 Smiley

That is a really fine looking kite! Excellent color choices and accents.
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Magma
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« Reply #118 on: December 23, 2011, 11:19 AM »

Thanks  Smiley

Others : B'zar 2009 , 2010 & 2011

http://www.tweelijners.com/werner/fotopagina-nl.html
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mdilucca
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« Reply #119 on: December 23, 2011, 11:56 AM »

Can anyone compare the main flying characteristics of the Bzar and the Vortex  Smiley

Cheers
Mario
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Cheers
Mario

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