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Author Topic: Vortex, my first kite build!  (Read 17584 times)
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Ca Ike
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« Reply #30 on: November 09, 2011, 01:25 PM »

Cool Rock........err Hoover Dam
     Mike

Swing, and a miss. HINT, wrong state.

OK, a quick thought popped into my head this morning while I was inspecting the spars I will be using for the frame.

While fitting end caps on the P90 I will be using for the ULE, I got the feeling that the end looked a little fragile to be unsupported in the nose with just a Vinyl cap on it. So, would gluing a short section, say 1"-1.5", of .240 ferrule flush in the end of the spar be a good idea? I know it will add a tiny bit of weight, but the trade off for durability seems reasonable to me.
I doubt you'd notice any affect from the meager 1gm  you might be adding.  if you want to minimize that you can use 2400 hollow pultruded or use my trick of sanding down the plastic end plugs from bic pens to fit so you have the flange of the plug protecting the edge of the rod too.
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DWayne
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« Reply #31 on: November 09, 2011, 02:21 PM »

Looks like Red Rocks Park.

Denny
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AKA_MrBill
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« Reply #32 on: November 09, 2011, 03:12 PM »

Looks like Red Rocks Park.

Denny

BINGO! We have a winner.
Your prize is...........that great feeling of pride you have right now.


I'll post an update on the build later tonight. My time just ran out and I need to go work with my Robotics team, yet another passion of mine.  Grin
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AKA_MrBill
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« Reply #33 on: November 09, 2011, 10:04 PM »

Today was a bit busy here, so my progress was a little hindered. One outcome of today's build was that I think I need to make a couple items for use during future builds. Specifically I am referring to sand or lead shot bags. There have been a couple times when having a pliable yet slightly heavy fist sized object would have come in really handy. It would be good for temporarily holding down a kite plan that had been rolled up too long, or holding a kite sail flat, without wrinkles, while you work on some detail or another. Maybe my next build project will be making those "tools".

Today I installed the spine re-enforcement. It is based on what Sugarbaker did in the B'zar 2011 build, but with a Mr. Bill twist.

I have this 5 yd. roll of 2 in. wide Mylar backed Dacron. It seemed to me that it would be a good choice for the spine re-enforcement strip. The Mylar coating would serve a dual purpose, added strength and a slippery surface for the spine to rub against. The only issue is, 2" width is just too much, so, I cut it along it's length.
The set up to cut it was simple and straight forward. I wanted it to be both accurate and straight. I also needed it to fold over on the nose end to be the inner most surface of the spine pocket. The kite measures 82cm nose to tail, so adding 5cm to that and I had my overall length.


Here is the cut strip with it's pocket.


Before sewing the strip to the sail, I first made a series of tiny dots along the center of the sail .5in. on either side of the center line. These were guides to help me make certain I attached the strip down the middle and correctly centered. I also applied small strips of seam tap to hold the strip in place while sewing.


Here is a close up of one of the dots on the nose. Currently the strip is pushed slightly to the side so it can be seen.


It was during this next phase when the sand bags would have been nice.
I gradually worked my way down the strip, centering and attaching it to the seam tape one section at a time.
In this picture I am using a roll of tape, and a ruler with clamps to hold it in place, to keep the curve in the tail from creating folds in the cloth. Kinda Mickey Mouse, but it worked. Next time, weighted bags.


Sewing the strip to the sail was fairly straight forward. The only key is to keep the strip straight as you sew because you are sewing right next to the edge. I used the inside corner of my presser foot as the guide point to keep it straight.


When I was finished, I was pleased with how it turned out.


OK, now for a little idea of how I'm documenting this. This is an ugly cell phone shot of my camera rig.


Visual Bliss or Eye Candy it is not, so, one more for the road!
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madhabitz
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« Reply #34 on: November 10, 2011, 12:51 AM »

Looking great!!

I think the sand bags are a good idea and will be very inexpensive. You might want to seal the sand inside a ziploc baggie first. If you just want to buy some weights you can go the expensive route (probably about twelve bucks) at a fabric shop and get these suckers:


You might be able to find some large/heavy washers at the hardware store that would work well. Or you could do like my friend Becky used to do while we were in high school-- just use some butter knives. ;-)

I think you're going to have this sucker done in record time!

Nancy
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Svolazzo
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« Reply #35 on: November 10, 2011, 02:21 AM »

Mhhhmmmm, a black dacron stripe as spine reinforcent? I don't like to see a black stripe in the middle of sail, IMO some transparent mylar would have been better and a bit lighter too, that is what I'm using in all my buids.

Paolo





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mikenchico
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« Reply #36 on: November 10, 2011, 07:09 AM »

... I think I need to make a couple items for use during future builds. Specifically I am referring to sand or lead shot bags...


I made a couple "Sand Snakes" that I've used in building. They were originally made to make it easier to fan fold up a 100 foot snake type kite in the wind so they are complete with eyes and a tongue for a little whimsy. They are made of a relatively tight weave polyester fabric and I've had no sand leakage even using the fine Long Beach, Wa. sand. A couple smaller ones would be handy too.

We have a crafter here that hits all the shows that does similar colorful snake's, poison dart frog's and gecko's in all different sizes, filled with beans. I bet you can find the patterns online if you like a little whimsy in your day.

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AKA_MrBill
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« Reply #37 on: November 10, 2011, 07:51 AM »

Mhhhmmmm, a black dacron stripe as spine reinforcent? I don't like to see a black stripe in the middle of sail, IMO some transparent mylar would have been better and a bit lighter too, that is what I'm using in all my buids.

Paolo






Believe me, the thought crossed my mind as well. Considering the strip is on the back side, and the fact that when I use the colorizer it has a black seam down the middle, I figured it would be too objectionable. Besides, this is my first build ever, so I'm allowed to make mistakes that can be improved upon on the following kites.  Cheesy


... I think I need to make a couple items for use during future builds. Specifically I am referring to sand or lead shot bags...


I made a couple "Sand Snakes" that I've used in building. They were originally made to make it easier to fan fold up a 100 foot snake type kite in the wind so they are complete with eyes and a tongue for a little whimsy. They are made of a relatively tight weave polyester fabric and I've had no sand leakage even using the fine Long Beach, Wa. sand. A couple smaller ones would be handy too.

We have a crafter here that hits all the shows that does similar colorful snake's, poison dart frog's and gecko's in all different sizes, filled with beans. I bet you can find the patterns online if you like a little whimsy in your day.




Whimsy, who me? Heck yes!

Funny you should mention sand snakes. It has been my assumption that they would be part of the set of weights from the beginning.
Weight in one spot and weight in a long strip on the cloth, paper or whatever, is one thing that was apparently needed several times. As for finding patterns, I'll definitely take a look.
So in addition to the kite build today, I'm going to a couple Gun Shops in the area today to see what the cost of bulk lead shot would be.
If I can get a couple of pounds for under ~$15, I just might use that. With #7 -#4 shut, the pellet size should be sufficient to not have to worry too much about leakage.
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mikenchico
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« Reply #38 on: November 10, 2011, 08:49 AM »

Is lead shot available?  Not in California. To late for us old guys, we've all been exposed to too much already but you young guys should try to keep your exposure to such things down, get the steel shot  Smiley
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AKA_MrBill
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« Reply #39 on: November 10, 2011, 09:04 AM »

Is lead shot available?  Not in California. To late for us old guys, we've all been exposed to too much already but you young guys should try to keep your exposure to such things down, get the steel shot  Smiley
Yep, that'll work too.
Man, it's a good thing we have the state to keep us safe. What would we do without them taking such good care of us?
Oh yea, prosper.
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sugarbaker
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« Reply #40 on: November 10, 2011, 09:13 AM »

another option (Used by Jest of Eve builder) is to use a jar full of coins... I use a peanut butter container (which also make great storage containers for kite parts).  Build is looking good.  I'm so pleased to know that there is mylar coated dacron available in the world.  Once I use the 40 yards I have, I'll have to order some more.

Stephen
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AKA_MrBill
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« Reply #41 on: November 10, 2011, 10:04 AM »

In the time that has passed between my last post and now, I have made two weight bags. They will not leak sand. They won't rust if they get wet (no steel shot). They are non-toxic (no lead). Are made from materials I had on hand. Best of all, they only cost pennies to make, literally!



Now it's time to go shopping for Velcro. The 3/4 in. I have on hand just isn't wide enough.

Oh, and for you landscape lovers:
« Last Edit: November 10, 2011, 10:16 AM by AKA_MrBill » Logged
sugarbaker
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« Reply #42 on: November 10, 2011, 10:11 AM »

good idea... combining the loose change idea and a bag.  I may have to use some of my diamond ripstop scraps to do the same!
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AKA_MrBill
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« Reply #43 on: November 10, 2011, 07:20 PM »

Yes, the Mylar sheet arrived at my door today!

In addition to making the tail strap for the spine (for details, see the B'zar 2011 build thread, just make sure to cut it 14.5in long), I also added the re-enforcement panels for the stand-offs. To do this, I had to create a template that spanned the area where the two stand-offs would attach as well as the optional Roll-bar if needed. So I printed out the individual sheets of the plan that cover this area. With them aligned and taped together, I connected the tops of the three circles on the plan using a straight edge. I then cut out the section I would need and attached it to some poster board.


I then proceeded to cut out the new template that would be for the re-enforcement panel.


I then used the templates to cut out two pieces of Mylar.


Once I had the two strips cut, (did I say I really like hot cutting?) I aligned the sail and secured it with my new weight bags. I then aligned and taped the new Mylar strips in place. Three little patches of seam tape were placed under each panel to hold them in alignment to the sail, yet would not be sewn through.


The next step exposed how new I am at sewing. Let me just say, sewing a zig-zag on a 1in radius curve isn't for beginners!
Fortunately the second side went smoother because I had learned how ugly it can get. The is the second side.


I'm actually pleased at how it turned out. I intentionally left the TE un-stitched because I will catch that when I apply the TE strip, hopefully tomorrow. I will also be placing a 2"X1.5" Mylar backed Dacron triangle at each of the stand-off attachment points on the front of the sail as additional re-enforcement, and because I like the way it looks.  Kiss

Here is a nice picture to end the day.
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madhabitz
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« Reply #44 on: November 11, 2011, 01:29 AM »

The next step exposed how new I am at sewing. Let me just say, sewing a zig-zag on a 1in radius curve isn't for beginners!
Fortunately the second side went smoother because I had learned how ugly it can get.

You're doing a great job of it, so no worries. In fact it's amazing how precise everything is!

I suspect you've figured this out for yourself, but I'll write this out anyway: When doing a zigzag around a curve, it helps if you stop in a needle-down position then lift the foot and turn the fabric just a tetch. Lower the foot then continue a stitch or two, stop again with the needle down, lift foot, turn fabric yada yada yada until you make it around the curve. The more you stop the smaller your fabric turns need to be. I like to stop with the needle down on the outside of the curve.

If your machine doesn't have the feature where your needle automatically lands in the needle-down position and you are having trouble going slow enough to control where your needle stops, you can hand-crank the wheel while working your way around the curve.

Is lead shot available?  Not in California. To late for us old guys, we've all been exposed to too much already but you young guys should try to keep your exposure to such things down, get the steel shot  Smiley

I was wondering about this when he wrote it-- couldn't imagine that stuff would still be available, but I know next to nothing about shot.... except I've got a couple of pounds of steel shot that costs an arm and a leg (to my way of thinking). I use it in a tumbler with metal bits'n pieces that need smoothing out.

Mr.B, I like the penny bags-- the weight of them would be great. Another choice might be rice-- the weight is pretty good and after a long day bending over a sewing machine, you can pop your rice bag into the microwave, heat it up, then use it to sooth your sore muscles. lol

Nancy
« Last Edit: November 11, 2011, 01:34 AM by madhabitz » Logged

"I haven't failed. I've just found ten-thousand ways that won't work."   -Thomas Edison
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