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Author Topic: Nissan Xterra  (Read 866 times)
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Zeke
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« on: April 24, 2012, 12:55 PM »

any Xterra Xperts out there??  got a problem with a 2000, 3.3l, V6, that occasionally will not accelerate when gas pedal is depressed but after a few seconds accelerates smoothly; goes into a rough idle from time to time but will smooth out; The hesitation reminds me of the 'old days' when the butterfly in the carb wouldn't open properly..  O2, IAC and  mass airflow sensor replaced.. mileage is high and income is low so I figure it will have to make it through the summer.  occasionally feels uneven on the open road but difficult to tell on some road surfaces. Injector cleaner additives have also been tried.    codes indicated show the antiknock sensor and multiple misfiring.  There doesn't seem to happen at any specific time of day when it happens, weather doesn't seem to be a factor.  thoughts or ideas??  I doubt exorcism of a devil will be necessary but .......
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mikenchico
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« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2012, 02:30 PM »

You replaced sensors BUT did you check the vacuum lines going to or from those sensors. My company once spent $4000 replacing the MAP sensor, computer, MAF sensor, injectors, fuel filters, ect. The problem? a cracked vacuum hose to the MAP sensor. The first thing supposedly replaced, and it's doubtful even that part was bad since the line that fed it was bad - a .15 cent fix.

Why? Because some shops are set up to fail, the shop it was at (3 times) was a dealer shop where they usially have a diagnostician who figures out what they think is wrong, then a mechanic is paid a flat rate by the time listed in "The Book" to do the fix. The mechanics are not going to spend an extra 20 minutes to tell the diagnostician they found a cracked vacuum hose or spend the extra 20 minutes  to go to the parts dept for 2" of hose and lose valuable time they could be getting paid for doing the next job on the board. They get paid for only the 20 minutes "The Book" says it will take them to replace the MAP sensor and they get paid the same whether the car is fixed or not.

A bad anti nock sensor could be causing the computer to retard the timing and possibly richen up the fuel mixture which could cause your problems. Another easy fix is to check your grounds, discounect the negative battery terminal and clean and check its connection to the engine block, then there should be a chassis ground from the engine to some point on the body/frame and also the ground for the computer which may just be the mounting bolts. Funky DC current can mess with the computer. 

« Last Edit: April 24, 2012, 03:37 PM by mikenchico » Logged

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boomertype
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« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2012, 04:05 PM »

I agree with Mike 100%, Vacuum line!
Google "xterra vacuum line" lots of references.

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Lee S
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« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2012, 05:59 PM »

Hey Zeke,

Hit me up by e-mail and I'll see if I can help a brother out. 22 years at this game, I ought to be able to think of a thing or two Grin

Lee
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Danno419
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« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2012, 12:56 PM »

distributor wiring ok?...
first thought was idle air control.. but you've addressed that.
to check for bad wiring... wait till its dark outside, run the engine with the hood up and see if you can spot any arcing.
Goodluck!
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justinpwheeler
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« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2012, 07:43 PM »

I have a 2000 xterra v6 as well.  About 2 yrs ago I had to replace the distributor.  It was not acting right and was causing the missing in the engine.  Sounds similar. 

I just dropped another $1000 on it last week on the fan clutch, crankshaft pulley, belts, timing belt and tensioner.  Not cheap but $1000 every 3 yrs is not bad given I don't have any car payments. 
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justinpwheeler
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« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2012, 07:44 PM »

Oh yeah, the codes all said the same things.  Knock sensor, mass air flow, etc.  I would bet a 50' line set its the distributor.
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mikenchico
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« Reply #7 on: April 25, 2012, 10:03 PM »

Hmmmm .... Distributer .... upper bearing went out on Rhonda's 1997 Nissan Pathfinder, it had the exact same symptoms you've described now that I think about it.

Fix was $7 for a new bearing, don't let them tell you it can't be repaired and you need a complete distributer for $250, we did it in the driveway with the little zipper pouch of tools I carry in my car along with a hammer & vice in Dads garage. Pull off the cap and look inside, does there seem to be a lot of metal particles? On ours it was like a fine orange/bronze dust. I only looked in there suspecting the coil, but once we started pulling the distributer apart from the top to get to the coil we found the dust shield in pieces on the bottom.

Even in the absence of metal dust grab the rotor and try to to move it back and forth, if there's any play there in the shaft you've found the problem. I had the same problem on a Chevy Astro Van, no dust from the bearing but play in the shaft which totally messes with your timing. Two screws hold that cap on and it's right on top of the engine, the diagnosis really is something anybody with a screwdriver can do, rebuilding or replacing the distributer requires a bit more mechanical knowledge.


« Last Edit: April 25, 2012, 10:21 PM by mikenchico » Logged

"Living is easy with eyes closed, misunderstanding all you see" John W Lennon

"People do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" George Bernard Shaw
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