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Author Topic: Best way to cut carbon spars  (Read 3488 times)
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WorldWind
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« Reply #15 on: May 29, 2012, 12:20 AM »

It's all about confident when familiar.
And it is not rocket science after all.
A smooth clean cut with no cracks or splintering is way more important than achieving precession better than plus or minus half a mm.
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madhabitz
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« Reply #16 on: May 29, 2012, 12:49 AM »

...I lay the spar on a table and roll it into my Dremel,


I'd say that's the ticket with the Dremel/cutoff wheel combo. Seems like it would be easy enough to build a stand to hold the Dremel just right, leaving your hands free to do the deed.
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Smeagol
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« Reply #17 on: May 29, 2012, 12:55 AM »

I agree on the carbon dust, gets kind of annoying if you're cutting multiple rods.  I tend to sometimes hold up the shop vac near the cut when I want to keep things clean and not get dust everywhere.  They do make the same saw with a shop vac attachment, but it was nearly $50 more for a little extra piece of plastic.  I'm going to just make up my own to hold the vac hose in place. Wink

-Mike

A hand held rotary too can cause more trouble that it's worth. They really send carbon dust flying, which is not good. If I had a vise, I'd lock it down and bring the part to the wheel. I use it when I'm in a hurry and have a cut list for a whole frame.

« Last Edit: May 29, 2012, 12:57 AM by Smeagol » Logged
inewham
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« Reply #18 on: May 29, 2012, 01:25 AM »

Just be careful with the dust - while carbon fibres aren't particularly dangerous themselves they are exceptionally good at carrying other dirt into your body with them. Wear a mask, goggles, cut through the tape or cut wet.

Once upon a time people used to think Asbestos was harmless.

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ozzymat
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« Reply #19 on: May 29, 2012, 04:56 AM »

Junior hack saw and a mitre box works for me.

Here's my home made mitre box that accepts Skyshark, 6mm and 3mm the 3mm has a stop just to get the accuracy up for the stand off's.

For the cleanest cuts
- Use a 32 TPI junior hacksaw blade.
- Put a layer of masking tape on the section before cutting.
- Only cut half way through before rotate the rod 90 deg, cut some more then a final turn to finish the cut.
     the idea is to only cut the tube from the outside to the inside to prevent tearing.
- Finally smooth the edges with a bit of 320 wet and dry or sandpaper.






Mat
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thief
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« Reply #20 on: May 29, 2012, 06:08 AM »

I have been using a dremel for 15 years now....only way for me....i do not use tape to mark the spot - i will mark the rod with a sharpie if it is light...and most of the rest of the time i grab the rod and have my thumbnail at the cut spot and cut just past it..trimmable if needed...

hacksaw: i have one in my kit...and hate using it....i find it much less controllable and fight the darn thing....rather put the broken kite away until i get back to my workshop...
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PUZZLE
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« Reply #21 on: May 29, 2012, 08:49 AM »

Thanks for all the good information Smiley
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Doug S
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« Reply #22 on: May 29, 2012, 02:46 PM »

A dremel with a cutoff wheel works the best.  I mount my dremel in a dremel drill press, which can be rotated 90 degrees into a horizontal position.  For prior production work, I used the power takeoff on my dremel jig saw with a cutoff well, which I mounted in a small box plywood that I clamped to my work table.  The plywood box provided me with a flat surface to control/rotate the graphite spar when cutting.  You want to have both hands free to hold/control the carbon spar.  Also, have a vacuum or fan running, since you don't want to breathe in the carbon dust.

Use blue masking tape to mark the desired location on the carbon spar, placing the tape on the side you are going to keep/use.  Remember that old carpenter phrase "measure twice, cut once."  When cutting, rotate the spar in your hands so the cut proceeds even through the spar.  Carefully clean up and radius the cut end with fine sand paper.  I seal the ends with a small amount of fast drying crazy glue.
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ae
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« Reply #23 on: May 31, 2012, 12:01 AM »

Call me nuts, but I'm using a arrow saw to cut my spars Smiley
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mikenchico
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« Reply #24 on: May 31, 2012, 07:30 AM »

... and let the saw do the cutting, rotating every few strokes ...

In case anybody missed it above ..." LET THE SAW DO THE CUTTING" ... best advise in the whole thread. If you force it you will split an expensive spar.

No need  to ask how I know this   Embarrassed 



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thief
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« Reply #25 on: May 31, 2012, 08:30 AM »

... and let the saw do the cutting, rotating every few strokes ...
In case anybody missed it above ..." LET THE SAW DO THE CUTTING" ... best advise in the whole thread. If you force it you will split an expensive spar.
No need  to ask how I know this   Embarrassed 

Totally agree!

Now...what did you do!?!?!?!?
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Rliquidice
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« Reply #26 on: May 31, 2012, 08:49 AM »

Chainsaw... the more cc's, the better.

Be a man!

Oh... and tape of course.


  This got the first grin of the day for me !    Grin
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madhabitz
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« Reply #27 on: May 31, 2012, 10:07 AM »

and let the saw do the cutting

+1

Same with the jeweler's saw....which is just a hacksaw with really really fine teeth
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Tmadz
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« Reply #28 on: May 31, 2012, 10:25 AM »

Chainsaw... the more cc's, the better.

Be a man!

Oh... and tape of course.


  This got the first grin of the day for me !    Grin

Is this the only time we'll be able to write "Husqvarna" on this forum?
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Dolphinboy
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« Reply #29 on: May 31, 2012, 10:36 AM »

I've used a Dremel with a mini cutoff wheel but it's kind over over kill and I just end up using a fine tooth hack saw most of the time. Like others have said, let the saw do the cutting, don't force it and use masking tape to wrap the rod before cutting.
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