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Author Topic: URGENT Help with Le Quartz glueing of two halves of sail!!!  (Read 847 times)
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Ara Ararauna
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« on: December 16, 2012, 11:30 AM »

Hi,

I now have the two halves of the sail completed and sewn (I think I got them quite nice   Smiley  )

I also have them glued from the top to the central T (with an 8mm overlap).

But I REALLY don't understand how the bottom part overlaps!!!!    Huh   Huh  Huh

The two plans are different:
1: Simple Plan: http://www.tweelijners.com/tom/tomskitesite-en/KB5.html
2: Complex rectilinear plan: http://www.kiteplans.org/planos/quartz/Quartz_V_1_0.pdf

I am using the second (because I'm using that layout).

Also I find this step not well explained in Tom's web site: http://www.tweelijners.com/tom/tomskitesite-en/KB5.html

As you can see in the plan on the link of "2.", on the spine zone we have:
1. The outer solid line that I have used to cut all pieces.
2. About 4mm inward, a dotted line.
3. From the central T downward a new dotted line appears that makes a curve inwards.

Now, if I have my right half taped to the plan coinciding with the solid line, how do I have to place the left half of the sail?
In other words, how does the overlap work (how much overlap) at that bottom part?

Please help otherwise I will not be able to continue.   Sad

Thanks.
« Last Edit: December 16, 2012, 11:33 AM by Ara Ararauna » Logged

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Ca Ike
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« Reply #1 on: December 16, 2012, 11:54 AM »

The bottom tail area from the center T to the tip of the tail used whats known as broad seaming.  YOu have to carefully glue along the curve to get the camber in the spine Christian wanted to get the proper trailing edge tension.  If you use the 4mm overlap the full length of the spine you get a bit looser trailing edge and an arrow straight spine and slightly better precision and more noise.  The curve line adds tension to the trailing edge and a slight curve to the tail of the spine and a bit better trick performance but mostly just a quieter kite.
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Ara Ararauna
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« Reply #2 on: December 16, 2012, 12:18 PM »

Yes thanks CaIke.

I know all the "theory" behind the fact that the bottom part of the union has to vary overlap with a curve and make the sail a bit concave.

What I cannot make out is the "practice".
In other words, how should I place the left half over the right half?
Which lines should I follow?
I will have two small triangles protruding at the bottom. I guess I will have to cut them off right?

None of these details are described in Tom's instructions...

Please, can anyone guide me on this?
Thanks in advance!
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Ara Ararauna
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« Reply #3 on: December 16, 2012, 12:37 PM »

YOu have to carefully glue along the curve to get the camber in the spine Christian wanted to get the proper trailing edge tension.  If you use the 4mm overlap the full length of the spine you get a bit looser trailing edge and an arrow straight spine and slightly better precision and more noise.

Wait, sorry CaIke. I think I read your e-mail too quickly.

Let me see.
First, just to make it clear (because I've read different versions) I have overlapped the top area one on one (not face to face).
Second, this overlap, I have made it of 8mm because the top dotted line should be in the center of the overlap (as is described for the rest of overlaps of the pieces of the layout).

This is what puzzles me for the bottom. Because there are two dotted lines: one straight vertically down, and another curved to the right (i.e. away from the spine).
So what I am not sure of is whether the curved dotted line should also be the center of the new overlap?

Hope I am explaining this so that it is minimally clear...  Roll Eyes  Sad
Thanks.
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Ca Ike
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« Reply #4 on: December 16, 2012, 12:47 PM »

On Toms site he just does the strait spine overlap first from nose to T then the tail following the curve.  How you overlap it has to be the same from nose to tail and it really doesn't matter which half is on top. Now you should have cut the sail following the curved line already and if you didn't you need to do that now.  WHen you glue that curve line both halves up with the straight lines on the plan as you glue and not the curve so you get a straight seam top to bottom.
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Ara Ararauna
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« Reply #5 on: December 16, 2012, 01:29 PM »

Now you should have cut the sail following the curved line already and if you didn't you need to do that now.  WHen you glue that curve line both halves up with the straight lines on the plan as you glue and not the curve so you get a straight seam top to bottom.


Let me see. In the plan I use (http://www.kiteplans.org/planos/quartz/Quartz_V_1_0.pdf) the edge of the sail is not curved at the spine. As it appears, the sail should be cut straight which is what I did...  :-?   !!!

If I should cut the sail at the spine in a curve I guess it should follow the curved dotted line but at 4mm distance to its left...  :-?

So, I guess what I'll do is:

1. put the double sided adhesive tape centered along the curved dotted line on my plan.
2. then overlap the two halves such that the two edges run symmetrically side by side along the double sided adhesive tape.

I will not cut the sail now that I have it sewn and well knotted at the ends. I don't think the surplus material will do any harm since it will anyway be hidden behind the reinforcements of mylar and dacron.

The only thing I will cut off are the two surplus triangles that will protrude below the edge of the trailing edge.

Does that sound minimally right?
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Ca Ike
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« Reply #6 on: December 16, 2012, 07:01 PM »

Yep sounds right.  That curved line when done should line up with the straight line when the sail is laid open.  Center your tape on the curve and as you put the halves together make sure the straight line is your guide.  when done the curves of both sides should line up on the straight line along with the rest of the spine seam.  Cristian sis the plans like that so you have both a guide to cut the broad seam and a straight guide for layup/seam prep.
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