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Author Topic: Moving the sail under the sewing machine... how do you solve rotations?!?!  (Read 925 times)
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Ara Ararauna
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« on: January 12, 2013, 03:08 PM »

Hi builders.

Revisiting the building process of my LeQuartz I wanted to ask about how you manage the rotations of the sail when sewing the different parts.

I found that at some points (for example when sewing the nose or the reinforcements) I had to sew in one direction, then rotate the sail and sew in another, etc.
These rotations forced me to pass the sail under the "arm" of the sewing machine. But although my machine is quite good, the space I have between the needle and the body is not too large.
Therefore the sail wrinkles horribly and those wrinkles leave marks on the Icarex.

In order to avoid this I thought of a few "tricks" but they don't always work and I'm not sure how it should be really done.

* One thing I did was to roll the sail on the side that has to pass between the needle and the body of the machine. This only works when you have to sew something in the central part of the sail but does not solve rotations.
* Another thing was to think carefully the rotation I had to do and then try to place the sail in such a way that all the rotations were made "outwards". But sometimes there is really no way to achieve this. Basically because that would often mean I would have to turn the sail over and then the nice side of the sew would be on the back side of the sail.
* Another thing I did was to sew backwards (by pressing the special button) some lengths to avoid some difficult rotation but I don't know whether that delivers a good sewing result. Moreover the cloth does not move so well under the needle when going backwards.

So I'm sure many of you have better "tricks" or solutions and I would really appreciate you telling me for my future builds.

Thanks in advance!

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mikenchico
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« Reply #1 on: January 12, 2013, 04:52 PM »

You've pretty much covered what we do, just thinking ahead to try to avoid having to stuff the whole sail through the arm, but it still happens it seems. Sewing backwards isn't a real good solution but we've resorted to it for a short distance when the alternative is to roll and stuff the whole sail for a couple inch seam.

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Ara Ararauna
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« Reply #2 on: January 12, 2013, 11:08 PM »

Darn...
I was really expecting "the" secret trick  Sad
I'm happy to see that I found the usual solutions by myself, but not so happy to face again that awful crinkling sound of Icarex being wrinkled... Brrr...  Cry
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TBHinPhilly
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« Reply #3 on: January 13, 2013, 03:16 AM »

If you have a big budget, there's another solution.

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Krijn
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« Reply #4 on: January 13, 2013, 05:28 AM »

wow...
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thief
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« Reply #5 on: January 13, 2013, 05:30 AM »

Yep....you are thinking it all through the same ways that most of us have....

One question: how different is the stitching top to bottom??  You called it the good side.....if the tension is set well there should not really be a discernible difference one side to the other..
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Ara Ararauna
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« Reply #6 on: January 13, 2013, 10:06 AM »

If you have a big budget, there's another solution.


WoooooW!  Shocked

That doesn't really exist, does it?!?!
I'm sure you extended it with Photoshop...    Undecided

In case it DOES exist, what can that cost??
And even more important what sort of studio or workshop do you need to fit it?
If I buy that I must also buy a new apartment...
LOL
 Wink
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Ara Ararauna
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« Reply #7 on: January 13, 2013, 10:08 AM »

Yep....you are thinking it all through the same ways that most of us have....

One question: how different is the stitching top to bottom??  You called it the good side.....if the tension is set well there should not really be a discernible difference one side to the other..

Yes, in theory that should be the case, but I didn't manage to get it 100% exact. So top of what you are sewing always looks neater than the bottom.
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Singles: Conyne STD (my design)
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