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Author Topic: Dodge Durango heat...  (Read 1688 times)
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Zeke
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« on: February 04, 2013, 04:05 AM »

looking for simple info as to the removal of the top of the dash so I may see what is not moving to blow hot air out the dash front and floor...blower works and blows hot air up to the windshield and rear heater works   been searching the forums but they all get  too involved for my simple abilities...
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rob103
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« Reply #1 on: February 04, 2013, 07:44 AM »

Simple answer is..don't! Usually the doors that route air to different ducts in modern day vehicles are moved by vacuum. Look under the hood for a broken or disconnected vacuum hose. Tiny (1/4-3/8)"soft rubber hoses back around the firewall start in the general vicinity of the blower motor and work  your way to the larger (1/2-3/4)" rubber hose that goes to the big round power brake booster up high on driver's side. There's probably a half dozen or so that tee off and go to different sensors on the engine . It could be any of the plastic tees or the nipple on the sensors. If you absolutely have to go into the dash, the doors for the floor ducts are usually reached by standing on your head on the front floor mats, or the middle dash ducts through the glove box.
Hope this helps!
Bill
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Lee S
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« Reply #2 on: February 05, 2013, 10:15 PM »

Hey Zeke, is that Dodge of yours made in any particular year?  I know, details details.....sigh....
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mikenchico
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« Reply #3 on: February 06, 2013, 10:37 AM »

I'm finding the 2002 is electronically controlled, but then I also see that there is vacuum to the climate control system which would indicate it's still vacuum operated?

Vacuum diagrams and mention of an electronic control here - http://www.2carpros.com/questions/dodge-durango-1998-dodge-durango-vacuum-diagram

If it proves to be electronic I would run the fuses with a circuit tester. Alternately check your manual to see if the electronic control is on an identifiable fuse, though it may be grouped with other dash accessories so you might have to hunt down a wiring diagram, I hate tracing those things.

Seems also that those with vacuum operated servos the vacuum line from the manifold t's with one line going to your cruise control actuator and one through the firewall to the vent actuator, I have seen the diaphragm go bad in cruise controls, that will cause no vacuum to the vent control. - http://www.fixya.com/cars/t2416712-heating_air_conditioning_control_stuck - if that's the case then plug the line to the cruise control until you can get it fixed, no cruise but a properly working heater is preferable in my book.

« Last Edit: February 06, 2013, 10:42 AM by mikenchico » Logged

"Living is easy with eyes closed, misunderstanding all you see" John W Lennon

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david barnby
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« Reply #4 on: February 14, 2013, 08:21 AM »

could be a wayward kite blocking the inlet vents Cool
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Hal
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« Reply #5 on: February 18, 2013, 05:17 PM »

A lot of these systems default to the defrost setting when there is a malfunction or vacuum leak.  Rear defrost is probably not related.
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Hal
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« Reply #6 on: February 19, 2013, 02:33 PM »

Sounds to me like  your climate control selector isn't  working right.  Its easy to check without tearing the dash out.  Pull out the front dash trim off, take out the radio so you can get to the lines and take of the knob panel so you can get to the back of the controls.  IF its electronic it will be a potentiometer type dial with a few wires coming off it (Or a circuit board) that leads to the vent door control servo or the vacuum manifold.  Check for voltage at the switch points if its electronic. If its vacuum there will be 4-5 1/8 inch plastic hoses going to the control. Run the car but leave the blower fan off and change settings while listening close to the dash (radio spot).  If you hear a soft air brake kind of sound then your vacuum is fine. Loud one and you have a leak.

Behind the radio/glove box there will be either  2 vacuum diaphrams(one for recirculate/outside air vent and one for dash vents) with a rod that hooks to the vent door or 2 electronic servo sitting on top of the vent box.  Check that the link rods haven't come off the door control arms and use a vacuum hand pump to test for diaphram leaks.  If its and electronic servo and there is no link rod replace the servo. You should just have to remove the radio, glove box and controls to get to the vent doors and enough room to work.
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