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Author Topic: Le Quartz Project - First time behind the sewing machine!  (Read 5861 times)
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thief
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« Reply #30 on: April 05, 2013, 05:22 AM »

i want to point out that a 2step zigzag is just fine....the 3 step does add extra thread strength in the seams but i know some kite makers that use the 2 step all the time.....
and especially as you are learning about your machine!   Some machines do stitches better than others.....some kite makers only use straight stitches....some use computerized machines that sew patterns and letters.....

you will also find the 2 step being used in situations where there is a reverse (or standard) applique on the skin...
and you will also find it used when the seam is a simple Flat Felled Seam where you put two pieces face to face and then sew  a seam down an edge using a straight stitch, then open the faces up and you sew the doubled up pieces down onside or the other of the first seam....for this i use a 2 step....
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« Reply #31 on: April 05, 2013, 07:08 AM »

Yes, the Reactors are sewn exactly as you show in the images above.  I guess I'll leave this first sail alone and just grab some fabric and try another color scheme using the 3-Step Zigzag.  I am defintely not using the nylon I bought before.  It's .75 oz and non-coated.  Outside of wind resistance, does the coating actually help keep the fabric stiff and stretch less?

What strength of line would you use for a leech line?  Is 200# dacron line overkill?

Also, what stand off connectors should I use on the Le Quartz when installing 5PT lower spreaders.  The site states the following:

Stand ]off Junction 6x5,3 mm 6 pcs leading edges, lower spreader??

What APA is that... I know the stand off rod is 3mm, the spreader for a tapered 5PT rod is 6mm?, 5mm?, 5.3mm?
« Last Edit: April 05, 2013, 04:35 PM by Spectra Sport 96 » Logged
WolvenX
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« Reply #32 on: April 08, 2013, 01:58 AM »

Question!  What is the best glue to use on the sails before stitching ?   
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« Reply #33 on: April 08, 2013, 06:02 AM »

I have had excellent results with Fabric Fusion.  Only downside is that it takes approx. 2 hours to truly handle the material.  The glue dries flexible and clean.  It does not gum up your needle.  You can still pull apart the panels if needed with some minor force if you make a mistake with setup.  Wink
« Last Edit: April 08, 2013, 08:17 AM by Spectra Sport 96 » Logged
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« Reply #34 on: April 08, 2013, 07:58 AM »

I need to order the spars for the Le Quartz.  What is the best 100% Sky Shark frame setup for a STD and for a LW build.  I've gone in circles a few times and really need expert advice from those who have built and flown these kites.  I keep coming up with different setups and not sure how balance will be since I won't be using the 6mm high modulus tubes.

I guess a good STD setup is as follows:

P100 US
P200 ULEs
P300 LLEs, Spine
5PT LS

I was hoping to make a simple, easy setup using this:

P2X complete frame w/ P3X Spine.  I love the look of the PX tubes and wonder how different they are to the P-Series and the PT-Series


Here is an update image of the completed sail.  Sorry for terrible lighting again and picture quality.

« Last Edit: April 08, 2013, 08:36 PM by Spectra Sport 96 » Logged
WolvenX
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« Reply #35 on: April 08, 2013, 02:18 PM »

Thx for the info!   And the sail looks really cool well done  Smiley
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Kites: x2 Jazz; x2 Microns; Quantum; Zephyr; Ozone; Alien; Illusion 2K; E2; E3; Redback (hold the line Kites); Silver Fox (vented) Talon & Iridium on the way !!!
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« Reply #36 on: April 10, 2013, 06:57 AM »

Well I tore apart the nose cap again to try sugarbaker's method and I think I agree with his statement of making the nose a bit more flexible with less Dacron in that area.  I didn't think the full Dacron strip down the center was as effective in concept.  The upper spreader wear on the sail would eventually require a patch diamond sewn on anyway in the future.  So now I've somehow found myself attempting to develop a more refined nose cap in Dacron that will incorporate increased flexibility.  Kite building is an incredible expression of form following function and sometimes function following form.  Wink
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« Reply #37 on: April 10, 2013, 02:48 PM »

Well here is the latest installment of Le Quartz and Kite Building 101 Crash Course for me.  I still am not sure what Sky Shark frame setup I should use for a STD or UL.  I temporarily used 1/4 in. wood rods to test fit the sail and of course there is almost NO sail tension as the wood is ULTRA WEAK.  Sad  It did let me get some pictures out to you all.  I did make the carbon stand-offs though.  Any input on frame selection would be appreciated.












« Last Edit: April 12, 2013, 01:28 PM by Spectra Sport 96 » Logged
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« Reply #38 on: April 10, 2013, 07:59 PM »

The "usual" skyshark frame I use for something like this is P200 LE and spine, 5PT LS and 6mm carbon US. Of course every one has there own idea of how to frame kites and there is always room for innovation, especially if you have a few bibs and bobs lying around. Using the mix of P200 and 5PT and 6mm is cheap, robust and easily replaced if you have a breakage. This is the frame in my Deep Space which I have beaten up mercilessly for years and still has the original rods. It also works a treat!
 Mike
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Lou
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« Reply #39 on: April 10, 2013, 08:55 PM »

Thanks sorry I had missed that earlier in the post.  That frame set you mentioned again follows the 15oz stick concept with some flex on the spine and LEs and rigidity on the spreaders. Since I have a lot of APA D connectors and 7mm stoppers I'll go with that setup but exchange the 6mm carbon US and 5PT LS and replace with 2PX.  Tube weight will be the same and we will see how close the 2PX and the 5PT are in stiffness.

I also just noticed the R-Sky Frenezy is literally spot on to the Le Quartz.  This is their frame specs that I'm sure they use for cost and durability which is a good base to start with:

Upper leading edge  - 6 mm
Lower leading edge  - 6 mm
Lower spreaders      - P200
Spine                     - 6 mm
Top Cross               - 6 mm
« Last Edit: April 10, 2013, 09:01 PM by Spectra Sport 96 » Logged
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« Reply #40 on: April 12, 2013, 10:22 AM »

Ok, so I decided on the following based on cost and the great prices Jon and Marieanne had over at Kites and Fun Things.  These were ordered from their surplus and B class tubes list.

Upper leading edge  - P2X
Lower leading edge  - P2X
Lower spreaders      - Nitro STD unsanded (purchased APA Db to fit to LE)
Spine                     - P2X 
Upper Spreader       - P2X (May use G-Force UL stick I have laying around) 

The P2X are 2/3 Camo but for $3.00 I couldnt say no for a test kite airframe, especially if covered by the LE pockets and sail material.  I wonder if there is anyway to sand the camo/finish off and clear over, or even leave sanded?

I think this should be a fairly solid airframe configuration to practice freestyle tricks on.  I've always flown precision so this will start a new chapter, we'll see how well the airframe holds up with my kids trying to fly this also!! Huh
« Last Edit: April 12, 2013, 08:14 PM by Spectra Sport 96 » Logged
Ca Ike
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« Reply #41 on: April 12, 2013, 10:32 AM »

Being in pockets and on the back side I wouldn't worry about the camo.  With that frame you will already be  bottom heavy so you might need to take out some tail weight.  PRobably around 3-5g but play around and see.
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Lou
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« Reply #42 on: April 12, 2013, 11:00 AM »

Being in pockets and on the back side I wouldn't worry about the camo.  With that frame you will already be  bottom heavy so you might need to take out some tail weight.  PRobably around 3-5g but play around and see.

The P2x camo are actually 16g sticks as they are "mega wrapped".  The unsanded Nitro STD sticks are actually listed 15-16g.  I will play with the weights but you think it will be that "bottom heavy"?
« Last Edit: April 12, 2013, 11:15 AM by Spectra Sport 96 » Logged
Ca Ike
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« Reply #43 on: April 12, 2013, 02:41 PM »

Yes it will simply because there is more carbon in the bottom half of the kite than the top half.  Stick weight only plays into the whole weight of the kite. Its how you distribute that weight that affects the kite.  YOu will be close to balance with that frame but you nay not need as much tail weight as the plans call for considering the suggested frame.
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Lou
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« Reply #44 on: April 12, 2013, 06:39 PM »

Sounds good, thanks for the input.  I'll be working on the bridle over the weekend and hopefully the tubes will be in early next week.  I'll also let you when I'll grab the Nuke late next week.  Thanks again Ca Ike.
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