GWTW Forum
September 01, 2014, 07:14 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News:
 
   Home   Help Forum Info Login Register Chat  
Welcome to the GWTW Forum.
Guests (non-registered users) can view the forum but are unable to post.  If you don't have anything to say then why would you bother to register?
One of the most popular sections of the GWTW Forum has long been the Swap Meet.  A great place to sell old, seldom flown kites or to get great deals on used (gently flown) kites.  Only registered users can see the Swap Meet section, let alone wheel and deal.  1000's (literally) of kites have changed hands thanks to the Swap Meet.
There are several more benefits to being a registered user, but you'll have to join our little community to find out all the "secrets".
Questions or concerns? Contact Steve ... just drop an email to: forum.gwtwkites@gmail.com

Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Sixth Sense Build Frame Question  (Read 950 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Lou
Trade Count: (+2)
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 258


Location: Orlando, FL

« on: May 13, 2013, 07:29 PM »

I am currently starting my Sixth Sense build now and wanted to use the Pro specifications since I have Nitro and Nitro Strong tubes in my inventory.  What I am having issue with is locating LE connectors that will fit properly as the Nitros range .305 to .320 in diameter where the LE connectors would mount.  I could mill out an APA D to fit but would prefer to simply use proper molded sized hardware.  Does anyone have any input on what can be used or best method to create a clean hole in a larger diameter.

PRO:
Sail: Icarex, mylar, dacron.
Upper leading edge: Black Diamond Nitro
Lower leading edge: Black Diamond Nitro Strong
Upper spreader: Structil 6mm
Lower spreader: Black Diamond Nitro
Spine: 5pt 101cm
Stand Off: 3mm carbon
Ballast on tail: 25g

Also: Currently needing mylar and KB is currently closed for very understandable reasons.  Does anyone have any reliable storefront recommendations or .5 to 1 yard available for sale.  Thanks guys!
« Last Edit: May 13, 2013, 07:32 PM by Spectra Sport 96 » Logged
Stuart99
Trade Count: (+2)
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 138


Location: Richmond, VA

« Reply #1 on: May 14, 2013, 04:17 AM »

I had a similar question a while back and found this post from Will Sturdy from a few years ago and saved it--hope this helps:

"Re: Any Way to Identify
Size of APA Fittings?
Reply #2 on: 24 June
2011, 19:18:06 Quote
I find it easier to just know what size should go in each location than trying to id stretched out holes.
CA for Pxxx leading edge with xPT or poltruded spreader
C for Pxxx leading edge and nitro, G-force, or aerostuff spreader
For lower spreaders I often use D or DB connectors because the pressure on most kites being always against the C-clip don't require a super tight fit on the spar.
TAPA W for UL's with xPT or poltruded spars
For lower spreaders I often use D or DB connectors because the pressure on most kites being always against the C-clip don't require a super tight fit on the spar.
Standoff fittings are .25 for nitro, G-force, and Aerostuff. .200 for xPT spars.
YMMV, tightness of fittings is to some extent a personal choice."
Logged
sugarbaker
Trade Count: (+7)
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 740


Location: Seattle, WA

« Reply #2 on: May 14, 2013, 03:13 PM »

I used D or DB with no trouble or modification required... I'll check the specifics when I get home. 
Logged
Lou
Trade Count: (+2)
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 258


Location: Orlando, FL

« Reply #3 on: May 14, 2013, 04:10 PM »

I used D or DB with no trouble or modification required... I'll check the specifics when I get home. 

I am using APA Db and APA D also.  Specifically, APA Db's for the SS build and I could muscle the connectors on.  Maybe slightly easier if I boiled them.  I preferred a tight press on/off in case I needed to fully breakdown the kite for air travel.  I actually just finished up using a Dremel tapered grinding stone to enlarge the start of the hole from both ends.  I then rolled 400 grit sandpaper to approx. .310 and finished the middle portion.  Looks super clean and fits tightly but can be worked across the entire tube with no lube including the .330 area. 

I think for future mod work I will either source a stone of according size or glue to a handled rod (screwdriver) rolled up 400 grit paper.  I did want to mention I am using B Stock Nitro and Nitro Strong rods for my personal builds so not having the smooth sanded or clear finishes are likely the reason for the fitment issues I am having as the natural wrapped finish seems to act as a brake on the connector as I pass over the larger diameter areas.
« Last Edit: May 16, 2013, 06:19 AM by Spectra Sport 96 » Logged
sugarbaker
Trade Count: (+7)
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 740


Location: Seattle, WA

« Reply #4 on: May 14, 2013, 04:13 PM »

I also put a dab of sewers silicone lube (used for thread to keep from binding or gathering adhesive) inside the connector.  slides with ease. 
Logged
Lou
Trade Count: (+2)
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 258


Location: Orlando, FL

« Reply #5 on: May 14, 2013, 04:14 PM »

I also put a dab of sewers silicone lube (used for thread to keep from binding or gathering adhesive) inside the connector.  slides with ease. 

That's a great idea.  Does the sewers aid evaporate or must it be wiped away from the area once in position?  I should purchase some regardless as I still do not have any for sewing purposes.
Logged
Lou
Trade Count: (+2)
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 258


Location: Orlando, FL

« Reply #6 on: May 15, 2013, 12:56 PM »

Which direction is the 5PTL used for the spine?  .240 ID side near tail or nose?
Logged
sugarbaker
Trade Count: (+7)
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 740


Location: Seattle, WA

« Reply #7 on: May 15, 2013, 04:08 PM »

for spine, wide portion goes down.  thin diameter in the nose.

one drop of sewer's aid goes a ways... and I've never had to wipe it away.  I do use stoppers at the tip side of my leading edge connectors to prevent the connector from sliding too far down, but in my experience, the connectors become pretty tight after a few hours; even with the silicone lube.
« Last Edit: May 15, 2013, 04:11 PM by sugarbaker » Logged
Lou
Trade Count: (+2)
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 258


Location: Orlando, FL

« Reply #8 on: May 15, 2013, 05:46 PM »

for spine, wide portion goes down.  thin diameter in the nose.

one drop of sewer's aid goes a ways... and I've never had to wipe it away.  I do use stoppers at the tip side of my leading edge connectors to prevent the connector from sliding too far down, but in my experience, the connectors become pretty tight after a few hours; even with the silicone lube.

Thank you very much.  These answers saved me a lot of time researching what I probably would not have found.  Most appreciated!
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  


items purchased through the links below help support the forum

Cal Custom

Our forum is made possible by the good folks whose ads appear below and by the members of our community (PayPal donation button at bottom)
In case you missed it each ad is linked to the sponsors web site.  So please, take a moment and visit our sponsors sites as this forum wouldn't be possible with out them.
Interested in running an ad for your business or kiting event?  Contact Steve at advertise.gwtwkites@gmail.com for a quote.

kmacFab
kmacFab

Kite Classifieds Ad
Kite Classifieds

A Wind Of Change
A Wind Of Change

Kitebookie
Kitebookie.com

Untitled Document

Untitled Document
Untitled Document

Untitled Document
Untitled Document


Untitled Document
DOLLAR SHAVE CLUB

Support the GWTW Forum

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.8 | SMF © 2006-2008, Simple Machines LLC
SimplePortal 2.2.1 © 2008-2009
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!