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Author Topic: Fixing a rip on mylar...  (Read 1351 times)
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Ara Ararauna
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« on: May 27, 2013, 02:47 PM »

Hi, I need to fix a 5mm and a 10mm rip on mylar on a classic Illusion.
They are just above the trailing edge.
I have some scrap mylar of the same type and I was thinking on cutting a small piece, a few mm larger than the rip and glueing it with cnotact glue as when I glue reinforcements.

Would that be wise to do or do you suggest something else?

Thanks.
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sugarbaker
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« Reply #1 on: May 27, 2013, 03:45 PM »

I would invest in some adhesive Mylar tape... Also called tedlar tape.  It is thinner/lighter weight than the Mylar you are repairing and will be less visible.  Tape it on both sides. 
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chilese
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« Reply #2 on: May 27, 2013, 11:49 PM »

When you cut the patch:

1 Cut away any edge that has been exposed to air.
    In other words, do NOT use either edge of the tape.

2 Round all corners.
    I cut an oval (ellipse) from the center of the tape.

3 Clean the surfaces before putting on tape.

4 Press out all air bubbles.
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John Chilese: Las Vegas, NV
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Ara Ararauna
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« Reply #3 on: May 28, 2013, 12:03 AM »

When you cut the patch:

1 Cut away any edge that has been exposed to air.
    In other words, do NOT use either edge of the tape.

2 Round all corners.
    I cut an oval (ellipse) from the center of the tape.

3 Clean the surfaces before putting on tape.

4 Press out all air bubbles.

Thanks.

I have a question about point "3"
The area around the rip on the sail is a quite sticky, as if it had already been repaired by a previous owner but the repair patch had fallen...
So, what should I use to clean this stickiness without damaging the mylar?
Can I use alcohol? Probably not...
Some sort of dish soap?
Glass cleansing liquid with bioalcohols?

And another question is how much larger than the rip should the patches be?

I want to make sure the patch is correctly and firmly placed so that the repair lasts for as long as possible.
Thanks!
« Last Edit: May 28, 2013, 12:05 AM by Ara Ararauna » Logged

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Smeagol
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« Reply #4 on: May 28, 2013, 12:31 AM »

I use Goo Gone to remove that type of left over adhesive, works pretty good.  Just make sure to clean if off afterwards as it can be messy.  Sometimes you can pull off the residue with masking/packing tape but it really depends on the surface.
« Last Edit: May 28, 2013, 12:34 AM by Smeagol » Logged
chilese
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« Reply #5 on: May 28, 2013, 12:56 AM »

The size of the patch falls into the category of

"How long should a speech be?"

"How short should a woman's skirt be?"

"How large should the repair patch be?"

ANSWER.

Short enough to be interesting
and
Long enough to cover the subject.

 Smiley
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Ara Ararauna
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« Reply #6 on: May 28, 2013, 03:14 AM »

@Chilese:  Cheesy

@Smeagol: I doubt anything named "Goo Gone" exists here in Barcelona (!?) Can you please tell me what type of product that is?

Thanks.

P.S. In the skirt case I would prioritize the first... so I hope I don't fall short with the patch  Wink
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Lou
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« Reply #7 on: May 28, 2013, 05:56 AM »

The size of the patch falls into the category of

"How long should a speech be?"

"How short should a woman's skirt be?"

"How large should the repair patch be?"

ANSWER.

Short enough to be interesting
and
Long enough to cover the subject.

 Smiley

Classic and well appreciate this morning!  Smiley
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madhabitz
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« Reply #8 on: May 28, 2013, 10:47 AM »

Oily stuff will break down adhesive stuff, i.e. cooking oil, machine oil, peanut butter, etc.
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Ara Ararauna
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« Reply #9 on: May 28, 2013, 11:58 AM »

Oily stuff will break down adhesive stuff, i.e. cooking oil, machine oil, peanut butter, etc.

Really?!?!?!  Shocked
You would clean the sticky adhesive with peanut butter?!?!?!  Huh
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thief
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« Reply #10 on: May 28, 2013, 12:07 PM »

Oily stuff will break down adhesive stuff, i.e. cooking oil, machine oil, peanut butter, etc.

Really?!?!?!  Shocked
You would clean the sticky adhesive with peanut butter?!?!?!  Huh
yep it works from clothing....not certain speicifically how it would be on nylons.....

you can also find mineral spirits that will remove adhesives well enough... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_spirit
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Smeagol
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« Reply #11 on: May 28, 2013, 12:12 PM »

http://googone.com/

or yeah, try some of the above suggestions.  Peanut butter is cheaper. Wink
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DD
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« Reply #12 on: May 28, 2013, 01:06 PM »

I would also be afraid of what goo gone leaves behind considering you want something to stick to it again. I would be more inclined to use alcohol hoping it would evaporate.

We have used googone,goofoff and other cleaners and they can sometimes leave an "oil" behind. They do a surprsingly good job on tire marks
ymmv
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thief
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« Reply #13 on: May 28, 2013, 01:09 PM »

I would also be afraid of what goo gone leaves behind considering you want something to stick to it again. I would be more inclined to use alcohol hoping it would evaporate.

We have used googone,goofoff and other cleaners and they can sometimes leave an "oil" behind. They do a surprsingly good job on tire marks
ymmv

Robert Brasington advises using GooGone and when he stayed with us we found another cleaner that i cannot remember what it is called right now - but it is a mineral spirit cleaner with more citrus in it iirc...will dig out the container tonight......he had found it back down in Tasmania and was trying to find it here in the states for his workshops here.......
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whitebirdlover
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« Reply #14 on: May 28, 2013, 08:15 PM »

Ara,
Denatured alcohol should clean most adhesive residues and not damage the fabric. Alcohol leaves no residue and is not a "hot" solvent as lacquer thinner is. Lacquer thinner also leaves no residue but may be too aggressive on the fabric, especially coated fabrics. It may,however, work well on mylar. Alcohol  can be easily found in any paint store or pharmacy. Use a soft clean cloth and test a piece of your spare fabric...
« Last Edit: May 28, 2013, 08:27 PM by whitebirdlover » Logged

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