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Author Topic: Le Quartz build, color scheme poll.  (Read 2686 times)
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KaoS
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« Reply #15 on: June 16, 2013, 06:59 PM »

One thing I just discovered and really like about this sail pattern is that you can sew an entire half with only two stitches... 4 tie points.  Here is how:



You can sew the entire sail with only three   Wink
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Kevin Sanders

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Lou
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« Reply #16 on: June 16, 2013, 07:37 PM »

I love the Mylar center panels photogbill, but the one OCD issue I keep having is the seam that would be created by sewing two halves of Mylar.  As with my custom SixthSense plans and panel layout I opted for one complete center piece of Mylar that would remove the unattractive center seam and only create a bit more work in making sure all overlaps were equal between the halves when sewing the Central Mylar in place.  From looking at your panel layouts, and my OCD issues I would have a lot more work on my hands although the look would be worth it!

The other major issue I am realizing with Mylar is that here in FL I seem to continuously get good winds for flight time in the evening when temperatures start to drop and the sun begins to set.  With E , SE with fairly constant I will always be flying into the sun.  My retinas are already damaged from all the solar flashes past few months flying.  Using so much Mylar, as much as I love the look is going to further accelerate my blindness!!!   Cheesy
« Last Edit: June 16, 2013, 07:39 PM by Lou (Spectra Sports) » Logged
photogbill
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« Reply #17 on: June 16, 2013, 07:46 PM »

I love the Mylar center panels photogbill, but the one OCD issue I keep having is the seam that would be created by sewing two halves of Mylar.  As with my custom SixthSense plans and panel layout I opted for one complete center piece of Mylar that would remove the unattractive center seam and only create a bit more work in making sure all overlaps were equal between the halves when sewing the Central Mylar in place.  From looking at your panel layouts, and my OCD issues I would have a lot more work on my hands although the look would be worth it!

The other major issue I am realizing with Mylar is that here in FL I seem to continuously get good winds for flight time in the evening when temperatures start to drop and the sun begins to set.  With E , SE with fairly constant I will always be flying into the sun.  My retinas are already damaged from all the solar flashes past few months flying.  Using so much Mylar, as much as I love the look is going to further accelerate my blindness!!!   Cheesy


My suggestion for your eye protection would be a pair of these: http://www.mauijim.com/

They are the best polarized eye protection from the sun on the face of the earth, IMHO! I have worn Mai Jim's for close to two decades due to eye strain issues and have never stopped using them since. I currently own 2 pair (in different lense shades) of the 'Stingray' models!
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sugarbaker
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« Reply #18 on: June 24, 2013, 12:25 AM »

Here are pics of my first of two LeQuartz builds.  This was my personal favorite color scheme.  Frame and bridle (bridle not on kite yet) are repurposed from the very first Sportkite I built.





Wing tips in the style of Lam Hoac
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Lou
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« Reply #19 on: June 24, 2013, 01:51 PM »

Great work, I'm so interested in the stitch type that you used to secure the leech line at the wing tip.  I used a simple 2 step zigzag.  Yours looks a bit more involved.  May I ask what was your process there.
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coogee
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« Reply #20 on: June 24, 2013, 03:14 PM »

I like the little touches, the contrasting white stitches on the black and the matching the LE tension line with the "colour" on the kite. Very good build ... as usual.
 Mike
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sugarbaker
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« Reply #21 on: June 24, 2013, 05:42 PM »

Great work, I'm so interested in the stitch type that you used to secure the leech line at the wing tip.  I used a simple 2 step zigzag.  Yours looks a bit more involved.  May I ask what was your process there.

I am using a basic zig zag stitch, set to approx 1.5mm width and 1mm length.  I'll take some more detailed pics with a better camera later in the week and post them for you to see exactly what I'm doing.  To an extent, quality of your sewing machine can make a big difference.  Also making sure it is set up correctly.  I run a test stitch for just about everything... Using the actual materials I will be sewing on the kite so I can verify that tension I correct.  For the most part I don't have to adjust for anything but sewing the nose, but I like knowing for sure.
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Lou
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« Reply #22 on: June 24, 2013, 07:59 PM »

Yes I can understand.  I have more apparent notes on sewing setups for different materials, components and stitch variations that I now own a separate notebook for kite building sewing notes.  The days of a scrap paper are long gone now.  I'm not even as deep as you are into kite building.  I cant begin to imagine all your compiled notes!!
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sugarbaker
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« Reply #23 on: June 26, 2013, 06:42 PM »

So, here is a closer look at the wing tip.  In this order,

1. sew on the trailing edge witha 2x2mm zig zag (highlighted in purple). 
2. thread in leech line using tapestry needle. Sewn in place with 1.5x1.5mm zig zag (yellow highlight).  (I press the line to the extreme edge and just eyeball the stitch, making sure the thread goes through the leech line as much as possible.
3. Add and stitch the leading edge using a 3x3mm zig zag (highlight in blue).  (at no point after stitching the main sail panels do I utilize a 3 step zig zag... the leading edge stitch is 3mm wide by 3mm long but only one step from side to side)



addendum: to secure the stitch, you can go one of two ways.  Either set the length of the stitch to zero when you start so that the needle just moves side to side.  I prefer to drop the feed dogs on my machine, and then stitch 3 complete cycles (so making 3 loops essentially without moving forward).  Then I raise the feed dogs (or dial in the length of my stitch) and continue on from there).  At the end of the stitch, I drop the feed dogs again (or likewise dial in a length of zero) and repeat the 3 loops.  Finally cut the stitch.

For the sail panels, I still use a 3 step zig zag or a serpentine (5 steps) stitch.  I finish those seams off by pulling the top stitch (front of sail) through to the bottom/back of sail.  I use a surgeon's knot x3 and then melt the strands down being careful not to burn a hole in the sail.

Hope this clarifies the process for anyone intersted.
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Lou
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« Reply #24 on: June 27, 2013, 09:40 AM »

Any particular brand of hole punch device your using.  I've bought a couple from Lowes and Home Depot but they don't seem to work well.  They rever punch a clean hole first time.  Any ideas on what brand to purchase.  Hot iron hole burns still give me a stress attack!  Grin
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sugarbaker
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« Reply #25 on: June 27, 2013, 10:40 AM »

I use a soldering iron with a thin tip, but I mask/screen with a metal sheet that I drilled a small hole in...a stencil
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CTaylor
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« Reply #26 on: June 27, 2013, 10:41 AM »

Any particular brand of hole punch device your using.  I've bought a couple from Lowes and Home Depot but they don't seem to work well.  They rever punch a clean hole first time.  Any ideas on what brand to purchase.  Hot iron hole burns still give me a stress attack!  Grin

Find a local leather supply and pick up a solid stainless steel leather hole punch.  Here in Ohio you can get them at Tractor Supply Company in the horse bridle area of the store.  Mine was about $30 and has about 6 or 7 different sizes of punches.  Very clean holes and will even punch in just 1 layer of pc31.  Makes quick work of 6 or more layers of dacron.  
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Lou
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« Reply #27 on: June 27, 2013, 01:56 PM »

I use a soldering iron with a thin tip, but I mask/screen with a metal sheet that I drilled a small hole in...a stencil

Damn brilliant and so simple....
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thief
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« Reply #28 on: June 27, 2013, 02:06 PM »

Any particular brand of hole punch device your using.  I've bought a couple from Lowes and Home Depot but they don't seem to work well.  They rever punch a clean hole first time.  Any ideas on what brand to purchase.  Hot iron hole burns still give me a stress attack!  Grin
Something that might help you is the Hot Tack tip i gleaned from the kite studio forum...

grab your cool soldering iron.....and have handy a bunch of springs that might fit over the tip against the should where the tip screws into and also will extend below the tip....
when you find the correct spring for you the setup will look just like an old school clicky ball point pen....

then when you find the location where you want your hole you can push gently down on the spring to make sure you are centered as you wish to be....then lightly push the iron downwards....when you have made the hole sufficient as you release the iron it should gently come back upwards thanks to the spring (well of course)....and it should be a smooth motion that will limit the amount of side to side movement you have with the hot tip!
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Kites kayaks & corgis again!!!
Lou
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« Reply #29 on: June 27, 2013, 02:59 PM »

Any particular brand of hole punch device your using.  I've bought a couple from Lowes and Home Depot but they don't seem to work well.  They rever punch a clean hole first time.  Any ideas on what brand to purchase.  Hot iron hole burns still give me a stress attack!  Grin

Find a local leather supply and pick up a solid stainless steel leather hole punch.  Here in Ohio you can get them at Tractor Supply Company in the horse bridle area of the store.  Mine was about $30 and has about 6 or 7 different sizes of punches.  Very clean holes and will even punch in just 1 layer of pc31.  Makes quick work of 6 or more layers of dacron.  

This is actually what I was looking for.  Perfect I'll go check out their locations and see if I can grba one.  I'm just not liking the use of heat in sensitive areas such as near Mylar and PC-31.
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